Agriculture is About Business : A diary of home garden hobby to commercial plantation

Production Period of Hybrid F1 568 Chilly

2010-03-21T22:57:00.004+08:00

As what I said last few weeks, we might be harvest our chilly in the end of March 2010. Now, all the chillies fruiting the green chilly fruits and will turn to red when its time to harvest. Normally we did not harvest the green chilly because the price of green chilly cheaper than red chilly except a special request from the buyers.

The Tropica Grape Cultivation

2010-03-21T22:29:00.007+08:00

Yesterday I met with my friend and we talk about our agriculture project that we had planned last year. I was shocked when he told me that he bring me the tropica grape baby plant which is I'm not sure from which variety. According to him, this type of variety will produce a sweet grapes fruits when its come to production stage. So now, I need to learn how to grow the grape in Malaysia weather which is I think still do not know about this type grape can grow in Malaysia. There are many type of variety grape that can be planted in Malaysia ie; Isabela, White Malaga, IAC, Muscat and etc.

Chilly Update

2010-03-12T00:57:00.003+08:00

The update about our chilly project at Sg. Telor, Kota Tinggi using conventional method. This is about 2 months old after transplant to the soil bed.

Agro Malaysia Portal http://agromasportal.com

2010-03-12T00:05:00.010+08:00

Recently I'm very busy with current project (chilly project) at Sg. Telor and my expansion project building the 'Online Portal' for agriculture. The company was setup so called 'Agro Malaysia Portal' which we put it under our website domain name. The idea come out when I think its better to gather the crowd under one place. In this website you can found our recent activities, agriculture products, forum, all about agriculture was there. You can reach us by visit the website at http://agromasportal.com

Chilly Kulai F1 568

2010-02-12T23:33:00.005+08:00

About 2000 chilly has been transplanted and can be divided into two plots. One plot is using drip tape irrigation water system, while another one is using straight dripper injected directly to the soil. Comparing with two system, we discover that using injector dripper direct to the soil is much better compared with using drip tape. 300 of chilly using this method and the rest of 1700 using drip tape.

For your information, we are using 4 mm micro tube and 3.2 mm dripper size that allow water flow smoothly through the tubing and goes to the soil. In the past experience, the 3 mm micro-tube gave us much problem such as blockage and need to service and maintain the tubing and piping all the time. More time consume when using 3 mm micro tube.

Cross-Bred Long Bean

2010-02-06T16:48:00.002+08:00

This is the latest long bean and cow pea cross-bred plant produced by MARDI.

Latest Video of LA

2010-02-06T16:32:00.007+08:00

Hi Folks,

I'm very busy with new farm and other external stuffs and unable to update in this blog. For your information, our activity now is planting the Kulai Chilly from variaty F1 Hybrid 568. This variety is most famous among dealers and farmers. Our chilly now is about 1 month age after transplant to the bed. We plant the chilly by using conventional method with fully automated support irrigation system.

Beside that, we plant the short long bean (cross-bred yard bean and cow pea) and also planting the haricot/french bean. About 300 seeds has been soil into the beds in the last 3 weeks ago.

Below are the video captured in Laman Agro farm.

Small Long Bean

2010-01-04T01:09:00.004+08:00

Have you heard about small long bean? This variety is similar to normal long been than we have seen at the market. The only different is, this type of long bean not using the support to grow. Its is offspring of cross-breed from cow pea and long bean (normal). Myself also first time use to plant this type of long bean and I plan to get more seed for upcoming phase. The picture above is the close up of small long bean that I plant at the garden. This time I try to plant only about 45 seeds.

Irrigation System Installation

2010-01-04T00:41:00.008+08:00

New garden has been lay up with Piping system (drip tape) since we start planting the cucumber last 2 months ago using direct utility water. This week we had installed pump and Intermediate Bulk Container (IBC) for water and fertilizer storage for main pipeline to the ridge. This is full automatic system controlled by digital timer. We use utility water and ground water as a incoming water. The capacity for pump is 1 HP with maximum flow-rate can run optimum to 120 L/min.

The digital switch timer has been used to control the volume of water dosage to the plants and also the sequence and time.

Step Preparing Bokashi

2009-12-30T00:31:00.005+08:00

USING THE BOKASHI BUCKET.

The Bokashi Bucket is a practical and convenient alternative for transforming kitchen waste into a nutrient rich soil conditioner. This unique composting system uses the revolutionary EM (Effective Micro-Organism) Bokashi to create the ideal conditions for airtight (anaerobic) composting, eliminating the odours and unpleasantness associated with putrefaction and decay.

WHAT YOU CAN COMPOST

You can compost almost every kitchen food waste including fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared foods, cooked and uncooked meats and fish, cheese, eggs, bread, coffee grinds, tea bags, wilted flowers and tissues.

Do not included liquids such as milk and fruit juice, paper and plastic wrap or meat bones.

STEP BY STEP

Place a 3-4 cm layer of organic waste on top of the grate before coating evenly with a layer of EM Bokashi. Use approximately one handful of EM Bokashi to every layer of waste. Use more EM Bokashi when adding high protein foods such as meat, fish, cheese and eggs.
Press down to remove air after every application. A plastic bag can be used for this.
In order to reduce the oxygen and create the conditions for the anaerobic fermentation process to take place, ensure that the lid is closed tightly after each application.
Repeat this layering process until the bucket is full, and top-up with a generous layer of EM Bokashi.
Frequently drain the Bokashi Juice that has accumulated in the bottom of the bucket. You can dilute this Bokashi Juice (see instructions below) to make your own organic soil conditioner or tip it down the sink to help clean-up our waterways!
Once the bucket is full to capacity, let the contents ferment for a period of 10-14 days at room temperature, continuing to drain off the Bokashi Juice regularly. While this full bucket of waste is fermenting, begin the process again in your second bucket. Wash the Bokashi Bucket after each use.
Once the fermentation period is over, you will see that the food has been preserved and now has an appearance similar to pickles. The following indicates The Bokashi Bucket composting process has been a success:
Smell: Well fermented Bokashi Compost should have a smell similar to that of pickles or cider vinegar.
Visual: Occasionally, particularly for longer fermentation periods a white cotton-like fungi growth may appear on the surface. This shows that a good fermentation process has occurred.

Indications that the fermentation process has not been successful are:

Smell: A strong rancid or rotten smell
Visual: The presence of black or blue green fungi indicates that contamination has occurred and the process has putrefied.

If you have noticed any of these signs it is probably the result of:

Not adding enough EM Bokashi
Not replacing The Bokashi Bucket lid tightly after every use
Not draining the Bokashi Juice frequently from the bucket
Prolonged and direct exposure to sunlight or extreme temperatures

If your fermentation process has struck problems, find a spot in the garden, away from plants and dig a 30-35 cm hole. Place 3 handfuls of Bokashi into the bottom of the hole tip the poor batch of compost into the hole and mix with some soil. Sprinkle another 3 handfuls of Bokashi onto the poor compost and fill the hole in with soil.

USING YOUR BOKASHI COMPOST

After the fermentation period is complete, the compost is ready to be planted. Bokashi Compost will look different to other compost that has decayed. As the food waste does not breakdown or decompose while it is in the bucket, much of its original physical property will remain and it will have a pickled appearance. Complete breakdown of waste will occur a few weeks after it has been transferred to the soil.

Suggestions for the garden:

Burying Bokashi Compost in the garden will supply the plants with a nourishing food source and condition your soil with enriching microbes. The Bokashi Bucket composting system significantly accelerates the composting process of organic waste. Bokashi Compost is acidic when first dug in, but neutralizes after 7-10 days. Be sure plant roots do not come directly into contact with the compost as it may burn the roots, particularly if the plants are very young. Fresh compost can be stressful to new plants so it is best to wait two weeks before planning you favourite veggies, flowers etc.

To prepare your soil before planting, dig a hole or trench approximately 20-25 cm deep. Add your fermented Bokashi Compost and mix in some soil. Cover with remaining soil. For established gardens, dig the holes around shrubs or between rows of trees.

If you have don’t have space to dig a new hole every time you empty your bucket, you can create a “Bokashi compost heap” by burying a large bottomless plastic bucket with a good lid (30 litres and above is ideal) up to its neck. Mix a little soil to each batch of Bokashi Compost that you place into the bucket, and replace the lid.

You can use your Bokashi Compost in planter boxes, tubs or pots by placing it directly into the container for further fermentation. Fill 1/3 of the container with potting mix (new or used) then add the Bokashi Compost and mix with soil. Fill the remaining 1/3 of the container with potting mix and cover with a plastic bag to maintain anaerobic conditions. Wait two weeks before planting you favourite veggies or flowers, or transfer potting mix into smaller pots for planting.

How Bokashi Works

2009-12-30T00:22:00.006+08:00

The Bokashi Bucket

The key to the success of this system is the specifically designed Bokashi Bucket, and the use of EM Bokashi.

Bokashi is a Japanese term that means “fermented organic matter. EM Bokashi is a pleasant smelling product made using a combination of sawdust and bran that has been infused with Effective Micro-organisms (EM). EM Bokashi has traditionally been used to increase the microbial diversity and activity in soils and to supply nutrients to plants.

* Place your kitchen waste into the bucket, then sprinkle a hand full of EM Bokashi over the waste.
* Repeat this layering process until the Bokashi Bucket is full.
* Drain off liquid (Bokashi juice) as necessary.

Once the bucket is full to capacity, the waste can be buried. If you have two Bokashi Buckets, begin the process again in your second bucket. Let the waste from the first Bokashi Bucket continue to ferment for 10-14 days or for any additional length of time. Then, bury the waste and wash out Bokashi Bucket ready to use when your second Bokashi Bucket is full. If you have only one Bokashi Bucket the waste can be buried as soon as it is full, obviously the waste on the top has not had much or any chance to ferment, even so, the waste will still break down quickly because of the micro-organisms mixed in.

With two Bokashi Buckets the waste gets extra time to ferment, you will get more of the valuable Bokashi Juice and it is more convenient, however, this wonderful composting system will still work with just one Bokashi Bucket.

Bokashi Compost will look different to other compost that has decayed. As the food waste does not breakdown or decompose while it is in the bucket, much of its original physical property will remain and it will have a pickled appearance. Breakdown of waste will occur after it has been transferred to the soil.

This is what it should look like before you bury the waste.

Burying Bokashi Compost

Burying Bokashi Compost in the garden will supply the plants with a nourishing food source and condition your soil with enriching microbes.

* Dig a hole, add your fermented Bokashi Compost, mix with some soil and cover.
* If you are low on garden space you can create a Bokashi Compost Heap, by burying a large bottomless bucket with lid.
* You can use your Bokashi Compost in planter boxes, tubs or pots by placing it directly into the container for further fermentation.

Bokashi Juice

As the kitchen waste starts to ferment, Bokashi Juice will form in the bottom of the bucket. This should be drained off as it builds up.

* Bokashi Juice can be diluted with water and makes a terrific fertiliser for garden or pot plants.
* It can be poured down drains and it is safe to use in septic tanks.

When used in drains it will help to clean up our water ways by competing with harmful bacteria.

HOW TO USE BOKASHI JUICE

The amount and colour of the Bokashi Juice produced will depend on the type of foods you have put into The Bokashi Bucket. Fruit and vegetables tend to release more liquid than other foods. Do not be concerned if little or no Bokashi Juice is produced.

Bokashi Juice can be use for:
The Garden – Bokashi Juice contains nutrients from the food waste and is alive with Effective Micro-organisms (EM) and makes a terrific fertiliser. To fertilise an existing garden or pot plants use 1 teaspoon to 2-3 litres of water and apply directly to the soil. For trees and shrubs use 2 teaspoons to 2-3 litres of water. Do not apply directly to foliage.

Around the House – Pour the concentrated Bokashi Juice directly into your kitchen and bathroom drains, toilets or septic systems. The Effective Micro-organisms (EM) will help to prevent algae build-up and control odour. It will also help to clean up our waterways by competing with harmful bacteria.

Bokashi Juice cannot be stored and must be used within 24 hours after draining from the bucket.

Please! Please! make sure you don't unscrew the tap more than 3/4 of a turn. More than this, will loosen central mechanism of the tap itself and cause issues.

HELPFUL TIPS

You can never add too much EM Bokashi; better too much than too little to ensure complete fermentation and good smelling compost.

Only add fresh food waste to The Bokashi Bucket, never rotten or mouldy wastes.

* Break or chop large waste into smaller pieces.
* Remember - the less air that comes in contact with the compost the better so compact the waste by pressing it down to remove air. A plastic bag can be used for this.
* Always close the lid tightly and drain the Bokashi Juice that accumulates at the bottom frequently.
* Do not add water, excessive amounts of fluids or place the bucket in the sun.
* Wash the bucket after each use.
* The Bokashi Bucket has been designed to be used with EM Bokashi. Used with other products may result in putrefaction rather than fermentation of food wastes.
* This is a new approach to composting. Don’t be afraid to experiment with it until you get a feel for how this process can work for you.
* Look into community composting & gardening projects in your area.

Bokashi Composting

2009-12-29T23:18:00.002+08:00

Bokashi is a method of intensive composting. It can use an aerobic or anaerobic inoculation to produce the compost. Once a starter culture is made, it can be re-used, like yogurt culture. Since the popular introduction of effective microorganisms (EM), Bokashi is commonly made with only molasses, water, EM, and wheat bran.

However, Bokashi can be made by inoculating any organic matter with a variety of hosts of beneficial bacteria/microbes. This includes manures, spent mushroom compost, mushroom spores, worm-casting tea, forest soil tea, yeast, pickles, sake, miso, natto, wine and beer. Molasses feeds the microbial cultures as they inoculate the organic matter.

Process

In home composting applications, kitchen waste is placed into a container which can be sealed with an air tight lid. These scraps are then inoculated with a Bokashi EM mix. This usually takes the form of a carrier, such as rice hulls, wheat bran or saw dust, that has been inoculated with composting micro-organisms. The EM are natural lactic acid bacteria, yeast, and phototrophic bacteria that act as a microbe community within the kitchen scraps, fermenting and accelerating breakdown of the organic matter. The user continues to place alternating layers of food scraps and Bokashi EM until the container is full.

Once the bucket is full to capacity, the waste can be buried. Two Bokashi buckets are often employed, in order to create an alternating setup. Waste from the first Bokashi bucket is allowed to continue to ferment for 10–14 days or for any additional length of time. The waste can then be buried. The empty Bokashi bucket is then ready to use when the second one is full.

Uses

Liquid, known as Bokashi Juice [1] is drained off as necessary. This liquid can be used as plant food, or can be poured down the drain. This may be a good practice for households with septic systems, as it is believed that this may help maintain a healthy septic environment within the holding tank. Bokashi juice is acidic, however, and if being used as a plant feed, it should be diluted at a rate of 1:100 parts water.

Bokashi Compost will look different to other compost that has decayed. As the food waste does not breakdown or decompose while it is in the bucket, much of its original physical property will remain and it will have a pickled appearance. Breakdown of waste will occur after it has been transferred to the soil.

Burying Bokashi compost in a garden supplies plants with a nourishing food source and condition the soil with enriching microbes[citation needed]. If the fermented Bokashi compost is being transferred directly to the garden, the material should be buried in a thin layer, at least a foot underground (to keep animals from digging for it) for 4–6 weeks prior to planting.

Bokashi compost scraps can also be mixed into a regular/traditional compost pile instead of transferring to soil. The bokashi mix is an excellent way to heat up the compost pile.

Take care not to plant fresh Bokashi waste too close to sensitive plants or bedding plants such as lettuce. If unsure, test in a separate patch of the garden and/or reduce the dilution ration to 200:1.

Eid al-Adha

2009-11-29T21:47:00.004+08:00

Today is 12 Zulhijjah islamic calendar. Eid al-Adha is a "Festival of Sacrifice" or "Greater Eid" is a holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to commemorate the willingness of Ibrahim to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God. Eid al-Adha annually falls on the 10th day of the month of Zulhijjah (ذو الحجة) of the lunar Islamic Calendar. The festivities last for three days or more depending on the country. Eid al-Adha occurs the day after the pilgrims conducting Hajj, the annual pilgrimage to Mecca in Saudi Arabia by Muslims worldwide, descend from Mount Arafat. It happens to be approximately 70 days after the end of the month of Ramadhan.

Muslims who can afford to do so sacrifice their best domestic animals (usually sheep, but also camels, cows and goats) as a symbol of Ibrahim's sacrifice. I choose to celebrate Eid al-adha at Yong Peng (F&M in law's house) since my wife still in "Pantang" 44 days after gave birth Qiesya Qairiena. We took 1 portion of cow meat for Qiesya Aqiqah.

Cucumber plant update

2009-11-29T21:10:00.002+08:00

Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV)

2009-11-29T20:50:00.003+08:00

A few of cucumber plants has infected with cucumber mosaic virus with heavy daily rain distribution to this area. The cucumber mosaic virus has one of the broadest host ranges. Cucumbers infected with the cucumber mosaic virus develop a slight yellowing and mottling of the older leaves. Expanding leaves typically become twisted, curl downward, and develop a "shoestring" appearance as a result of a restriction of the leaf surface to a narrow band around the midrib of the leaf. Diseased plants are stunted and produce small quantities of fruit.

The disease affects a number of important vegetables and ornamentals including tomato, pepper, cucumber, melons, squash, spinach, celery, beets, and petunia. A virus distributed world wide, affecting most cucurbits. New growth is cupped downward, and leaves are severely mottled with alternating light green and dark green patches. Plants are stunted, and fruits are covered with bumpy protrusions. Severely affected cucumber fruit may be almost entirely white.

MEANS OF CONTROL

* The virus is readily transferred by aphids and survives on a wide variety of plants. Varietal resistance is the primary management tool, and eliminating weeds and infected perennial ornamentals that may harbor the virus is critical.

* Virus diseases cannot be controlled once the plant is infected. Therefore, every effort should be made to prevent introduction of virus diseases into the garden. Sanitation is the primary means of controlling virus diseases. Infected plants should be removed immediately to prevent spread of the pathogens. Perennial weeds, which may serve as alternate hosts, should be controlled in and adjacent to the garden. Avoid planting tomatoes next to cucurbits, spinach, or other vegetables and flowers susceptible to these diseases. Control of aphids will help reduce the likelihood of cucumber mosaic.

Botanic Pesticide

2009-11-22T11:59:00.005+08:00

Botanic pesticide is from organic ingredients, one of alternative for farmer use to control the pest in their garden and farm. For home gardener this alternative is more suitable and simple thing to do and very economic cost comparared with chemical pesticide. Other than that, the chemical pesticide will take effect to user if they wrongly apply to their plant or miss placed. So, botanic pesticide is one of safely solution to avoid human injury if there is miss using and miss place the chemical pesticide.

Pest catagory : (chew)
Beetles, grasshopper, butterfly, shell, others

Pest catagory : (suck) virus vector & deceases
Aphid, Scaler, White fly, mites and others

Preparation of Stock Solution
1. 1 Liter of water
2. 1 spoon cooking oil / vege oil
3. 1 spoon detergent
4. 4-6 pieces of garlic

Pour in cooking oil into 1 Liter of water. Grind the garlic and add in into water+garlic solution and stir. Filter all the ingredients solution. Final preparation to use, 1 : 4, stock solution : water.

* for chewer pest, add in a few of chilly powder
* for sucker pest, add in a few of essential oil or ginger (blended).

Thats are the procedure that can be used for small lanscape or home gardener. For bigger scale plantation, we can sugest to use :

Onion extract
To control antranoks and other chilly deceases. Blend 50gm onion in 1 liter water, filter and spray to the infected chilly.

Tea Tree Mixture
To control damping-off - mix 5 ml tea tree oil into 10-20 Liter water. Apply this solution by moisture up the soil (Soil Drenching)

Ginger Extract
To control fungicide - Blend 20g of ginger in 1 Liter water, filter and spray 3 times a week.

Neem leaf extract
To control white fly, aphids, thrips - Mix 2 kg of blended neem leaf with 30 g detergent. Lets the mixture for 1 night and filter. For each 5 liter portion to be mixed with 15 liter water and spray to your plant.

Garlic extract
Also to control vector as above, white fly, thrips, mites - Mix 100 g chopped garlic into 0.5 liter water. Add 10 ml cooking oil and 10 g detergent. Leave it for 1 night and filter it. For spray, mix that mixture with water in portion 1:200

Cucumber Diseases and Pests

2009-11-18T23:58:00.003+08:00

You can grow your cucumber starter plants indoors up to 2 weeks before you’re ready to plant. You can also plant seeds directly in the garden. Arrange your garden in small hills and plant around 4 seeds per hill. Separate your seeds by about 2-3 feet. You can also ground your cucumbers in rows. Space your rows about 4 feet apart, with the seeds about 2 ½ feet apart in the rows. Remember that some cucumbers varieties are suitable for container gardens.
Cucumbers unfortunately suffer from a variety of pests and diseases. Aphids, pickle worms, mites, and cucumber beetles are common pests you may see in your garden. Diseases you’ll need to look out for are anthracnose, powdery mildew, downy mildew, bacterial wilt, and angular leaf spot.
The cucumber beetle is a particularly nasty pest that attacks plants early and also spreads bacterial wilt. Look for this pest as seedlings emerge. Also look for signs of bacterial wilt early on. Plants infected with bacterial wilt will droop and eventually die.

We recommend using a natural pest control method to treat problems with your cucumbers. If you use chemical pesticides, you may be harming the bees that will fertilize your vines. Chemical pesticides can also harm other beneficial insects and soil organisms.

Today diary...

2009-11-18T23:20:00.005+08:00

Today 18.11.2009 I went to garden and start work in early morning. The weather is quite good with a little sun shine, not so hot until afternoon time. In the morning, I've been transplanted about 350 of cucumber plants into the ridge and after lunch, I pick up two bundles of ready stacking bamboo to the farm. After that I finish up all the bamboo support for cucumber ridges which are not complete yet. Since everydays we receive heavy rain, many cucumbers plant are collapse onto the ground so that I tie up all the cucumbers plant with rafia ropes. 6.30 pm go back home.

Know Your Pesticide

2009-11-18T22:22:00.006+08:00

When we talk about pesticide, many gardener do not know how to control the pest in their garden. In this scenario, they are sometimes wrongly apply the pesticide to control certain pest in their garden.

Below are two of pesticide which is to control the fungicide and the mites. Antracol is a fast-acting organic fungicide, has been produced and marketed in Indonesia for more than 30 years. It is especially suitable for protective control of Phytophthora and Alternaria on vegetables. It features good residual activity. Good results have been obtained with Antracol also against leaf spot diseases on vegetables. Antracol is well tolerated at the specified concentrations by the crops for which it is recommended. No risk of resistance formation (multi-site)/useful in anti-resistance programs for different pathogens (downy mildew, Alternaria, scab etc. ). Important source zinc supply in case of deficiency for many crops, such as potato, tomato, grapes. Excellent phyto-compatibility for various crops, also in early development stages Product Benefit - Works effectively at any season (dry and wet season) - Suitable to be applied in low and high land crops - Reliable, has been a market leader for more than 30 years. - Supply trace elements (zinc) - Excellent phytocompatibility for various crops, also in early development stage.

Whereby to control mites on vegetables and other crops plant is Mitec by Bayer. This type of pesticide is suitable to control mites from 'Amidine' group which is effect on direct contact and also through breathe to nerve systems.

Preparing cucumber netting support

2009-11-14T00:18:00.003+08:00

Above are the pictures how we prepare the netting support for cucumber plant. The materials are, bamboo stick, rafia rope and metal strand.

On Hold Chilly

2009-11-13T23:32:00.004+08:00

We have to re arrange the schedule for our farm since nowaday is raining day. So, to avoid inconsistent crop plant grow especially for chilly plant, we decided to keep chilly project in this new farm ON HOLD until the weather is good. To keep our farm keep producing crops, we switching to cucumber plant until early next year (Jan-Feb 2010) then we will grow the Local Kulai Chilly and others few crops plant.

About 2300 cucumbers successful transplanted into the soil and coming 4000 will be ready in a few days to be transplanted.

Below is the 3 days cucumbers seed in the media trays (1 1/2 inch height)

Preparing Cucumber Support

2009-11-13T23:03:00.002+08:00

On 11.11.2009, we went to our friend farm to get the bamboo for cucumber support preparation since the cucumber plant is about 1 and half week. The cucumber is very fast growth compare with other crops plant. In the first two weeks, we need to get all the support ready at the farm. Cucumbers also require a decent amount of growing space in the garden so that's why we need make the support for them. Cucumbers are not picky about soils.

However, we have to make sure the soil is well-draining and has a pH of around 6.5. Add plenty of organic compost to your garden soil before you grow cucumbers. This will ensure that they have the proper nutrients to grow strong and healthy.

Transplant Cucumbers

2009-11-05T23:43:00.004+08:00

On 4th November 700 cucumbers baby had transplanted in evening time after rotoring the soils and today only 700 cucumbers successful transplanted to the ridges due to continues raining from morning til evening time.

Plowing, Rotoring and Ridging

2009-11-05T22:26:00.009+08:00

Picture after plow
After the clearing the land, we need to plow for the whole area at lease 1 time. But normally for vegetable, we need to plow two time following by rotoring and finish by ridging job. I advice to use 4 wheels drive tractor instead of two because this type of machine is more powerful and fast doing their job. We hire Eurostar tractor 4 wheels drive combination of rotor and ridge (2 in 1) for easy and fast job.

Rotoring & ridging in progress...

Photos of ridge width 3 inches for cucumbers and 4 inches for chillies

Land Preparation

2009-11-05T20:56:00.002+08:00

Land preparation typically involves leveling, plowing, rotoring, and ridging the field to make it suitable for crop establishment. 2-wheel tractors or 4-wheel tractors can all be used as power sources in land preparation. The initial soil tillage can also be performed with a rotovator instead of a plow.

Flooded Soils

The vast majority of Asian rice fields are first flooded with water before tillage. This tillage of flooded soil is referred to as puddling. Soil flooding and soaking is performed once and requires sufficient water to bring the topsoil to saturation and create an overlying water layer. Soil puddling destroys soil structure, which reduces percolation rates and loss of water. It also results in high resistance to root penetration, low porosity, and permeability and in the formation of a soil plow pan; all of which can restrict root growth.

Puddling is very efficient in clay soils that form deep cracks penetrating the plow pan at about 15 to 20 cm soil depth during the period of soil drying before land preparation. Although puddling reduces percolation rates of the soil, the action of puddling itself consumes water. There is a trade-off between the amount of water used for puddling and the amount of water “saved” during the crop growth period as a result of reduced percolation rates. Puddling is less effective in coarse soils, which do not have enough fine clay particles to migrate downward and fill up the cracks and pores in the plow pan.

Non Flooded Soil:

A well-leveled field is a prerequisite for good water and crop management. When field are not level, water may stagnate in the depressions whereas higher parts may fall dry. This results in uneven crop emergence and uneven early growth, uneven fertilizer distribution, and possibly additional weeds. Effective land leveling will :

* Improve crop establishment and care,
* Reduce the time and water required to irrigate the field, and
* Ensure more uniform distribution of water in the field

Land preparation for dry seeding typically involves consists of plowing or rotovating followed by harrowing and leveling of dry and friable soil. The crop is established by broadcasting or drilling seed that has not been pre germinated.

Farmers can reduce water use by shifting from puddled to non-puddled land preparation. Large amounts of water (20–40% of total water use) are consumed during land preparation of flooded soils because of the need to initially soak dry and cracked soil, and to keep the field continuously flooded. Most of the wasted water is lost by drainage through soil cracks. Dry land preparation does not require irrigation water because it can be done when the soil has the correct water contact and is friable for plowing or rotovating and harrowing.

Day 8 Cucumbers

2009-11-05T20:51:00.002+08:00

Snap shot day-8 cucumber in the media tray waiting for transplant into soil.

Cucumbers Variety

2009-11-03T22:49:00.014+08:00

We bought two types of cucumber from different variety at this time which is from Hybrid F1 Harmony from Cropcare Biotech (UK) Ltd and local cucumber seeds ,CH cucumber from Chian Hup. I had receive 1 packet of cucumber seed which called Hercules variety from one of malaysian's agro colleague from Indonesia cost about RM 16.00 per pack (900-950 seeds). We still need to know which variety is most demanding from agriculture wholesalers. About 2,300 seeds from CH and Harmony variety have been soil into tray media and will be transplant in 5-6 days after seedling.

My wife gave birth!

2009-11-03T22:36:00.006+08:00

Sorry for not updating the blog. I was busy with my family in last few days. My wife gave birth baby girl 3.35 kgs on 31.10.2009 at 10.26 am. She were discharged from Hospital Batu Pahat on 01.11.2009 at 12.30 pm. So, i want to share my new baby picture with my friends who always read my blog. Her name is Qiesya Qairiena.

More pictures !

2009-10-28T21:46:00.002+08:00

Sungai Telor Project

2009-10-26T00:17:00.004+08:00

Side view from the border of land, about 1.8 acres to be plant with chilly and cucumbers. This picture taken after finish clearing the land and waiting for plough job. Due to inconsistent weather in a few weeks, we have to wait until the top surface of soil completely dry. Hopefully in this week we can start the plough job and start seedling the chilly.

Clearing in progress...

2009-10-22T23:54:00.002+08:00

Sungai Telor Back Flash

2009-10-22T23:46:00.004+08:00

This view of Sungai Telor's project before the whole area been cleared. This picture is after 30% of small trees and undergrowth has been cleared by back pusher.

New Project Map

2009-10-08T13:10:00.002+08:00

Sungai Telor Chilly Plantation Phase 1

View Sungai Telor Project Phase 1 in a larger map

I'm Back!

2009-10-05T23:52:00.003+08:00

Assalamualaikum and Salam sejahreta to all readers,

I would like to apology for being idling from blogging for 3 months due to very busy in personal and business. I'll try to update the blog on daily basis depend on the what updates changed.

Today October 05, 2009 I'm back to my blog to write the journey from home garden to commercial plantation. For last few weeks and months, I was busy preparing something to get into commercial plantation.

My plan is move foward where we found the area for our project. We plan to plant 1.8 acres of chilly at Kampung Baru, Sungai Telor, Kota Tinggi area. The progress work now is about 10% which is clearing the land and setup the farm infrastructures. I will update when I have update from time to time...

Long Bean : Day 45

2009-06-28T01:36:00.002+08:00

Update picture for long bean. Today is days 45 the long bean after transplanted.

Little Chilly : 100 Days

2009-06-28T01:29:00.002+08:00

Today June 28, 2009 is 100 days of little chilly groom and I did harvest the chilly fruits a few time. At least I can save a few dollar instead of buy at the market.

Long Bean : Day 25

2009-06-07T22:06:00.004+08:00

Today is 17 days long bean after transplanted into polibags. I use 'rafia' rope to make the semi-trellis system for support due to hard to find the bamboo stick around this area. So I have to use alternative support to replace a normal support and trellis system is the best for my small garden.

Drip Irrigation New Installed

2009-06-07T21:45:00.004+08:00

On the 2nd June 2009, I bought the PVC pipes and fittings to install the Irrigation system for my garden. Cost for this system about Ringgit Malaysia Fifty all together. The timer I bought not function for 2-5 minutes run time. It was 15 minutes minimum and its not work for irrigation system with small water storage tank. I need to change a digital timer to make this system perfect and some modification at the storage tank. Below is the illustration how the pipes goes to the individuals polibags for chillies, long beans, and tomatoes plant.

Updated Garden Pictures

2009-05-22T03:49:00.004+08:00

Little chillies 65 Days old after transplanted

2 days old Long Bean from black seeds after transplanted

Tips for Watering Tomato Plants

2009-05-20T02:21:00.003+08:00

Water slowly, water deeply – The number 1 rule of watering tomatoes is to make sure that you go slow and easy. Never rush watering tomato plants. Use a drip hose or other forms of drip irrigation to deliver water to your tomato plants slowly.

Water regularly - How often should you water tomato plants? There is no hard and fast rule to this. It depends on how hot it is and if the plant is actively growing. A good rule of thumb is to supply water once every 2 – 3 days at the height of summer. Remember that water supplied by Mother Nature counts towards watering tomato plants in the garden. Once the weather cools and fruit has set, scale back watering to once a week.

Water at the roots – When watering tomatoes, make sure you get the water straight to the roots. Do not water from above as this can cause disease and pests to attack the plants. Watering tomato plants from above also encourages premature evaporation and unnecessarily wastes water.

Mulch – Using mulch help to keep water where the plants need it. Use mulch to slow down evaporation.
Problems related to improper watering tomatoes

Improper watering can lead to the following issues:

Blossom end rot
Stunted growth
Reduced fruit production
Susceptibility to pests
Root loss
Sub-quality fruit

Now that you know how often should you water tomato plants and how much water tomato plants need, you can water tomatoes in your garden with confidence and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

How Much Sun Do Tomato Plants Need?

2009-05-20T02:12:00.002+08:00

Light requirements for tomatoes to grow

The simple answer to questions on light requirements for tomatoes is that you need a minimum of 6 hours to produce fruit, but 8 or more hours of sun will produce the best results in terms of how many tomatoes you get.

The reason that light for a tomato plant is so important is that tomato plants convert sunlight into energy. Tomato plants need energy to make their fruit. Therefore, the more sunshine they get, the more energy they have and the more fruit they can produce.

Light requirements for tomatoes to ripen

So now that you know the light requirements for tomatoes to grow, you may be wondering how much sun do tomato plants need in order to ripen their fruit.

Growing tomatoes and sun is necessary, but the fruit themselves do not need sunlight to ripen.

Tomato fruit actually ripen fastest in the absence of sunlight. Tomatoes ripen because of heat and ethylene gas, not because of sun light.

So remember, the answer to the question how much sun do tomato plants need is simple. They need as much as you can give them. If you make sure that there is enough light for a tomato plant, the tomato plant will make sure there is enough tasty tomatoes for you.

Last Episode of Cucumber Story

2009-05-19T21:51:00.006+08:00

Today is the last episode for cucumber, all the leafs turn to yellowish color means there is no more cucumber fruits from the plant. So late evening I did replace the cucumber with long bean from black seeds. 6 long bean plants have been transplanted into 3 polibags. I still have a five days seedlings long bean from white seeds in the media tray. In Malaysia the white seed market is more demand.

Pelleted Chicken Manure Organic Fertilizer

2009-05-17T15:56:00.003+08:00

Pelleted Chicken Manure (PCM) organic fertilizer (4-1-1)is a decent source of nitrogen (2-4%) and 100% organic. It also has small amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Making PCM entails composting the manure until the manure is completely sterilized, which kills pathogens, viable weed seeds, salmonella, etc, at temperatures above 158°F (70°C).

I did water my little chilly with dilution of Pelleted Chicken Manure once a day to make sure its have a good compost of nutrient balance. The result is I have a very good health chilly plant in my garden.

This manure is the richest source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium of the animal manures.

PCM Use

* Used to increase green leaf growth
* Adds organic matter that creates humus
* Soils with high pH can be brought closer to neutral
* Can be used as a compost decomposition activator
* Improves soil structure
* Do not use around seedlings
* When adding to your garden as a nitrogen source, always blend it into the soil (be aware of the strong smell)

3rd Harvest the Chinese Water Spinach

2009-05-16T00:53:00.005+08:00

Today I did harvest the 'kangkung' or Chinese Water Spinach in English from my Hydroponic case. Those who are seedings the Chinese Water Spinach in the hydroponic can follow my tips not to remove all the roots from hydroponic case. You can repeat harvest them by cutting them a little bit higher from the roots (about 2 fingers higher from first branch) then u can see a new branch will grow up from there.

I ask my wife to fried with sambal and dried prawns or 'kangkung belacan' in Malaysia. Sambal is a malaysian chilli made by pounding chillies with a bit of lime and belacan. Belacan is fermented shrimp paste usually sold in a solidly packed rectangular block.

Hurmm..yummi..yummmi...its very delicious but regretly I have a bad ulcer in my mouth and my tounge got ulcer too. So pity...I can't move my tounge so much...:(

Transplanted Little Chilly

2009-05-13T01:40:00.013+08:00

Yesterday was May 13, 2009. The little chilly was 26 days young.The young chilly plants ready to move individually into polibag. After I came back from shopping at TESCO Tebrau, I did prepared 9 bags of black soil that I bought cheap from TESCO (RM1.18 only for 7 liter). Below are the steps how I trasnplant all 9 of young chillies.
9's of black soil in the polibag ready to be transplant
Watering the black soil to give them a little bit moisture

Make a holes using the sharpen and rounded stick

Holes has been made to fit the a young chilly with peat moss

Fit this chilly together with peat moss from the soil case

Chilly been trasnplanted to polibag

All 9 chillies has been trasnplanted into polibag

Long Beans

2009-05-12T20:53:00.004+08:00

Yard Long bean is a climbing annual and is popular legume grown for its immuture pods which are narrow, round, and stringless. The Plant tolerates acid and can be grown in areas with low rainfall.
Scientific Name: Vigna sesquipedalis
Family: Fabaceae
Colour: Light green to red
Common names: Yard long bean, long bean, Chinese long bean, snake bean, pea bean
Best Season: Throughout the year
Nutritional Value: 34 kcal, 4.2 g protein, 110 mg calcium, 4.7 mg iron, 2.4 mg vitamin A, 35 mg vitamin C per 100 g serving.

This climbing plant is a close relative of the cowpea or black-eye pea. It comes in different varieties from the more common pale green pod variety, to the more slender darker green one, to a deep brownish red variety. These beans are rich in vitamin A and contain a fair amount of vitamin C.

It is an annual long trailing vine usually grown on poles for support and often reach heights of 9-12 feet. The plant has large pale pink to violet-blue flowers. The pods will grow up to 12 to 30 inches long, depending on the variety, with each pod containing several edible seeds. This plant continues to grow after flowering and fruiting.

Propagation and Planting :
Long Beans are mainly a warm-season crop and will survive extreme humidity and heat. It can be planted in a wide range of climatic conditions but is very sensitive to cold temperatures.

Propagation is through direct seeding or transplanting. They prefer a light, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.8, enriched with organic matter, such as compost or dried manure.

Plant the seeds 1-2 inches deep in warm soil. Germination will take place within 6 to 10 days. Soak the seeds in water before sowing, for better germination. Transplants should be done in such a way as to avoid disturbance to the root system. The plants should be placed 2 to 3 feet in rows and the distance between rows should be 4 to 6 feet apart on raised beds or ridges. Dwarf growing forms can be planted much more densely. Place poles and give wire or twine supports in rows. Extra fertilization is not essential as long as you have enriched the soil before planting. But the plant needs heavy watering at regular intervals.

Flowering will occur 5 weeks after sowing. Fruits will grow from open flower to suitable length in about 10-12 days. Pick the pods at the tender stage at maximum length, before the seeds mature or swell. Yard long beans may grow up to 24inch long, but it is better to pick them at 12 to 18 inches.

While picking, cut the pods with a sharp knife to minimize plant damage, thus maximizing harvest. Leave the pods to reach full maturity, allowing them to dry on plant, if the pods have to be reserved for seeds. The pods will break open and the seeds can be collected.

Problems and Care :
The plants are susceptible to black bean aphids, spider mites, nematodes, and mosaic viruses. Aphids, particularly the black bean aphid are drawn to the pods of this plant. Bean fly is the main pest causing small yellow spots on the leaves. They can be treated by spraying dimethoate. Red spider mite produce a speckled silvery appearance on leaves and can be treated by spraying dicofol.

Beautiful of tomato flowers

2009-05-10T00:55:00.011+08:00

Day-48 after transplant
What I love to plant is I can see the plants and vegetables growing start from day 1 till we can pick the fruits. The beautiful tomatoes flowers from the tomato plants to become tomato fruits.

2nd Harvest Chinese Water Spinach

2009-05-10T00:16:00.013+08:00

Today is day-38 of Chinese Water Spinach, little mustard and cabbage in the hydroponic case. Until now I did harvested two times of swamp cabbage and 1 time for mustard and I did replace the all cabbage seeds and mustard seeds with chinese water spinach seeds because swamp cabbage is easy to grow and no need much attention to care about it. Just Seed-Wait-Harvest and topup the hydroponic fertilizer into the case.
If you plant the swamp cabbage in the hydroponic or in the pot, just cut a little bit higher from the roots to make sure more new branches coming out. See picture below..

Back to blogging !

2009-05-09T23:59:00.003+08:00

Hey...I'm back to blogging from medical leave. Over a week I have suffered from lumbago. Until yesterday morning, my wife bring me to clinic and get medical check up from doctor. After have a rest and take a medicine from clinic, now I'm slowly recover from sick..

So now I can take care of my plants and most important thing is back to blogging. If not, I can't sit on the chair, move so much.

Late evening, I snaped a few photos from my little garden. See my little children, she very active helping her Papa hehe..

Weekend activity...

2009-05-02T12:56:00.003+08:00

Hello, yesterday was a labour day so many people take this advantage to go for holiday or visit their parent at their hometown. Myself and my family today will take this two days for my kid to see her grandmother and grandfather and ofcourse to meet her cousins.

Picture above are the cucumber that I harvest from my little garden this morning. Not so much but more than enough to cook or make it as a 'ulam'.

Jatropha Curcas For BioDiesel

2009-04-30T00:00:00.008+08:00

Bio Diesel is the way of the future

For a truly renewable source of oil, crops or other similar cultivatable sources would have to be considered. Plants can offer a sustainable oil source for bio diesel production. Different plants produce usable oil at different rates. Some studies have shown the following annual producing capabilities as follows per hectare in liters:

Soybean - 400 - 450
Sunflower - 600 - 800
Rapeseed - 1200
Jatropha curcas - 4000

The oil producing capabilities of the Jatropha tree furthermore seemed to outmatch its nearest competition by far. Sources suggest that Jatropha curcas can even produce up to 6000 liters of oil per hectare.

Jatropha curcas, also known as the “Physic Nut” originated in the Caribbean. It’s a drought-resistant perennial, growing well in marginal soil. Easy to establish, grows relatively quickly and lives, producing seeds for 50 years. Jatropha plant produces seeds with an oil content of 35%. Early laboratory tests have shown that the oil from Jatropha curcas has, among others, the iodine value, cloud point and pour point highly desirable in bio diesel. Jatropha oil is said to be superior or comparable to many of the plant-based fuels being developed or already available in the market. The oil can be combusted as fuel without being refined. It burns with clear smoke-free flame, tested successfully as fuel for simple diesel engine. The by-products are press cake a good organic fertilizer, which contains 3.2 % Nitrogen, 1.4% phosphorus and 1.2% potash. The oil is also used as lubricants, soap, candle manufacturing and its oil, contains insecticide. It has also been reported as hair growth stimulant and thus can be used as hair oil. In animals or livestock, its application is useful against sores.

JATROPHA CURCAS - PLANTATION

Jatropha farming requires to be systematically managed for better growth and production. Its growth and seed yield could be improved through effective management methodology. The key factors that influence the plantation of Jatropha are as follows:
1. Climate
2. Quality of the soil
3. Irrigation
4. Weeding
5. Use of fertilizer
6. Crop density
7. Use of pesticide
8. Inter-cropping
9. Labour
10. Crop Yield
11. Germination
12. Process and Handling
13. Storage and Viability

Climate

Able to withstand tropical heat, and doing well in warmer areas.

Quality of the soil

Sandy well-drained soils. Can withstand very poor soils and grow in saline conditions.

Irrigation

Jatropha handles dryness very well and it is possible to live almost entirely of humidity in the air. It will also stand for long periods without water and then grow again when rains occur again.

Weeding

Standard practices are timely weeding (2 - 4 times a year), proper fertilization, surface ploughing and pruning. With these management practices a yield around 15-20 kg of fruit per tree can be obtained even, if the plants did not reach full maturity.

Use of fertilizer

Jatropha can adapt to low fertility sites and alkaline soils, better yields seem to be obtained on poor quality soils, if fertilizers containing small amounts of calcium, magnesium, and sulphur are used.
Crop density
Spacing: 2 meters X 2 meters. Wider spacing is reported to give larger yields of fruit. Plants: 2,500 of plants per hectare.

Pruning

Pruning – 1st prune. The plants need to produce side shoots for maximum sprouting and maximum flowers and seed. Between 90 and 120 days, first pruning is done when the plant attains 1 metre height, cut the top off cleanly and cut top will produce 8 – 12 side branches. It is considered good practice. In order to facilitate the harvesting, it is suggested to keep the tree less than 2 meters.

Inter-cropping

Specific intolerance with other crops was not detected. On the contrary the shade can be exploited by shade-loving herbal plants; vegetables such red and green peppers, tomatoes, etc.

Labour

Harvesting is done by hand plucking. One person could collect and decorticate 25-30 kg seed per day.

Crop Yield

It appears very difficult to estimate unequivocally the yield of a plant that is able to grow in very different conditions. Yield is a function of water, nutrients, heat and the age of the plant and other. Many different methods of establishment, farming and harvesting are possible. Oil yield from established plantations can yield around 1.5 to 2.3 tons per hectare. Yield can be enhanced with right balance of cost, yield, labour and finally cost per Mt. Seed production ranges from about 2 tons per hectare per year to over 12.5 tan/hectare/year, after 5 years of growth. Although not clearly specified, this range in production may be attributable to low and high rainfall areas.

Germination

Fresh seeds show dormancy and after-ripening is necessary before the seeds can germinate. Dry seed will normally germinate readily without pre-treatment. If this is the case, it is not recommended to remove the seed coat before sowing. Although it speeds up germination there is a risk of getting abnormal seed-lings.

Processing and Handling

The collected fruits are transported in open bags to the processing site. The harvested fruits should be sun dried for 6-8 hours until all the fruits have opened for easy removal of the seeds. It has been reported that direct sun has a negative effect on seed viability and that seeds should be dried in the shade. When the seeds are dry, they are separated from the fruits and cleaned.

Storage and Viability

The seeds should be dried to low moisture content (5-7%) and stored in air-tight containers. At room temperature, the seeds can retain high viability for one year. However, because of the high oil content the seeds cannot be expected to store for too long. Seeds older than 12 months show viability below 50%. High levels of viability and low levels of germination shortly after harvest indicate innate (primary) dormancy.

Info Bionas

Chilly Flowers

2009-04-29T23:42:00.005+08:00

Today is 29.04.09 and day-42 after transplant. The chilly plant about 1 1/2 feet height and grow healthy with new branches coming out. I'm expected another 3-4 weeks for the chillies can be harvested and will last maybe for 3-4 months after that. By the way, this is first experience for me in planting of little chilly.

A beautiful little flowers to be chilly fruits.

Fertilizing Basics

2009-04-27T00:16:00.010+08:00

It pays to know why, what, how, and when to feed your plants

What plants need

The three essential elements that all plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—or N-P-K, the proportions of which are stated as numbers on the package. For instance, a general-purpose fertilizer labeled 20-20-20 means that each chemical element—N, P, and K—contributes 20 percent by weight to the total formula (the remaining 40 percent is composed of inert materials and trace elements). The element percentages are offered in varying proportions to suit different fertilizer needs. If you are looking to boost flower production, you want a mix like 15-30-15, which is high in flower-developing phosphorus. If you want to green up your lawn, choose a mix like 25-6-4, which is high in nitrogen. Many fertilizers are formulated for specific plants like roses, bulbs, or vegetables. Be sure to check the label for the N-P-K ratio, as you may be able to use a general fertilizer with close to the same nutrient percentages but at a lower price.

In addition to N-P-K, most fertilizers contain traces of other elements important to plant health. Some trace elements are more important than others, but each nourishes a plant in its own way. The main trace elements in fertilizers are calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, manganese, zinc, molybdenum, boron, and sulfur (you can usually purchase these items individually as well). If any of these elements are lacking, a plant may show characteristic deficiency symptoms. An iron deficiency, for instance, causes chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins), which is easily corrected with a dose of chelated iron.

There are quite a number of fertilizers available today, both organic (plant and animal derived) and inorganic (chemically derived). While the majority are commercially produced inorganic fertilizers, there are a few options for the organic gardener. Many rely on the old standbys—animal manure and compost—which, although organic and good for soil building, actually contain few nutrients. For flower and fruit development, bonemeal with a high phosphorus count is the organic of choice, while blood meal is a good source of nitrogen.

How to choose

There are two types of fertilizers available to the home gardener: granular and water soluble. Each type has advantages and disadvantages. Granular fertilizers deliver food to a plant slowly but have the advantage of longevity. Since they must be broken down by water before a plant can use them, granular fertilizers do not leach out of the soil as rapidly as water-soluble types. Water-soluble fertilizers are faster acting but more transient, which means they must be applied more frequently than the granular type.

Both types of fertilizers are effective, so the one you choose depends on whether you want to give your plants a quick but frequent fix or a sluggish but extended feeding. And for those of us gardeners who are oh so very busy (or oh so very lazy), nothing beats time-release granular fertilizers, some of which require only one application every six to nine months.

There are several ways to apply granular and water-soluble fertilizers, but there are a few general guidelines that one should follow when applying them. Avoid applying a fertilizer on windy or rainy days. This can cause it to be misplaced and ineffective. When using a granular fertilizer, always be sure to knock the fertilizer off plant leaves to avoid burn. Never apply a granular fertilizer when the soil is extremely dry, and water it in thoroughly after applying to prevent plant burn.

When to fertilize

Knowing when to fertilize is as important as using the right fertilizer. If you don’t apply the fertilizer at a time when the plant can use it, there’s no point in fertilizing. Most perennials, annuals, vegetables, and lawns will reward you handsomely if fed with a balanced granular fertilizer in early spring. Avoid fertilizing before the spring showers, however, or you will be throwing your money away, since the nutrients will simply leach out of the soil. Annuals like to be fed an additional three to four times during the growing season with a high-phosphorus, water-soluble fertilizer, while lawns benefit from a second granular application in early fall.

No matter how hard one tries, it’s tough to transform the topic of fertilizers into lively conversation. But for all gardeners, knowledge of fertilizers and how to apply them effectively is as crucial to vigorous plant growth as knowing a plant’s hardiness zones. So in the interest of growing healthy plants, what follows is a brief discussion of the why, what, how, and when of applying these multivitamins.

Three prime chemical elements are found in all mixed fertilizers:
N = Nitrogen promotes healthy leaf growth by stimulating the production of chlorophyll (the main chemical involved in photosynthesis—how plants convert sunlight to food).
P = Phosphorus supports the vigorous development of roots, stems, blossoms, and fruits.
K = Potassium plays a key role in helping plants digest and manufacture their foods.

Why plants need fertilizers

All of the nutrients essential to plant growth are present in the soil or are floating in the air, so what’s the point of fertilizing? The point is that not all plants can access the key nutrients found in the soil or in the air. Each soil type has its own mix of nutritional ingredients, so before considering what fertilizers a plant may require, we need to consider the soil in which a plant is growing. Activities like intensive farming, construction, and traffic can alter soil chemistry and structure, limiting the nutrients that plants can use. In some cases, the nutrients aren’t naturally there to begin with or have been leached out over time. For these reasons, we, the diggers of the dirt and keepers of the garden, must replenish, replace, or help release those elements that are beyond the reach of our plants.

When it comes to fertilizing, more does not mean better. It is possible to overfeed your plants. Too much fertilizer can damage and maybe even kill your plants. Before applying any fertilizer, it’s a good idea to have your soil tested so you can select the type and formula that suits your plants’ needs. In return, our plants will reward us with bigger flowers, bigger leaves, and bigger fruits and vegetables.

Roses have insatiable appetites. To keep them fat and happy, feed them with a soluble fertilizer every seven days during their blooming season. “Weekly, weakly” is the feeding mantra for all roses. One final thought: Feed only well-established plants; fertilizing seeds or tiny seedlings will cause fertilizer burn.

Just remember, these guidelines on feeding are just that—guidelines. Read the package directions before scattering both food and caution to the wind.

Vege Flowers Makes My Vege Garden Looks Nice

2009-04-26T13:22:00.007+08:00

Today is day-35 after transplant into polibag. A close up view from top of my tomato plant. . A few flowers to be a little fruits and of course I want to see all my tomatoes plant full with tomatoes fruits.

Male flower from cucumber plant. I plan maybe tomorrow or another two days to harvest the cucumbers.

A little chilly start flowering out from new branches.

How To Prune a Tomato Plant

2009-04-25T00:44:00.012+08:00

How to manage your plants for better health and better fruit
by Frank Ferrandino

A tomato is a solar-powered sugar factory. For the first month or so, all of the sugar it produces is directed towards new leaf growth. During this stage, tomato plants grow very rapidly, doubling their size every 12 to 15 days. Eventually, the plants make more sugar than the single growing tip can use, which signals the plant to make new branches and to flower. This usually happens after 10 to 13 leaves have expanded, at which time the plant is 12 to 18 inches tall. In the next few weeks, the entire character of the tomato plant changes. If unsupported, the increasing weight of filling fruit and multiple side branches forces the plant to lie on the ground. Once the main stem is horizontal, there is an increased tendency to branch. Left to its own devices, a vigorous indeterminate tomato plant can easily cover a 4- by 4-foot area with as many as 10 stems, each 3 to 5 feet long. By season's end, it will be an unsightly, impenetrable, disease-wracked tangle.

Prune for plant structure and health

With tomatoes, we want to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize the risk of disease. This is best accomplished by ensuring that each leaf has plenty of room and is supported up off the ground. When a tomato plant lies on the ground, or when its growth is extremely dense, many of its leaves are forced into permanent shade, greatly reducing the amount of sugar they produce. If a leaf uses more sugar than it makes, eventually it will yellow and drop off. A pruned and staked plant will produce larger fruit two to three weeks earlier than a prostrate one.

A properly pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant presents all of its leaves to the sun. Most of the sugar produced is directed to the developing fruit, since the only competition is a single growing tip. The result is large fruits that are steadily produced until frost. If more stems are allowed to develop, some of the precious sugar production is diverted from fruit to multiple growing tips. Fruit production, although slowed, never stops. The result is a nearly continuous supply of fruits throughout the season. In general, more stems means more but smaller fruits, which are produced increasingly later in the season. (This is much less applicable to determinate plants, due to their shortened growing season and better-defined fruiting period. Therefore, determinate plants require little pruning. See "Indeterminate vs. Determinate," below.)

Pruning also affects plant health. The leaves of a pruned and supported plant dry off faster, so bacterial and fungal pathogens have less opportunity to spread. Soil is less liable to splash up onto staked plants. The bottom line: Upright plants have fewer problems with leaf spots and fruit rots because their leaves stay drier and free from pathogen-laden soil.

The way you choose to train and prune your tomato plants will affect how you space your plants, as well as the best method of support . There's no one right way to do it. Instead there are a few good patterns to follow.

Simple vs. Missouri pruning
There are two ways to deal with a sucker that isn't destined to become a stem. The simplest is to pinch it off entirely; not surprisingly, this is called "simple pruning." This should be done when the sucker is still small and succulent. Grab the base of it between your thumb and index finger and bend it back and forth. The sucker should snap off, producing a small wound that will heal quickly. Avoid cutting the sucker with a knife or scissors, because the resulting stump can become easily infected. Once a sucker becomes too tough and leathery to snap off, however, you'll have to use a blade. I recommend a retractable razor knife.

In Missouri pruning, you pinch out just the tip of the sucker, letting one or two leaves remain. The advantage is that the plant has more leaf area for photosynthesis and to protect developing fruit from sun-scald. The disadvantage is that new suckers inevitably develop along the side stems, adding to your future pruning chores.

Missouri pruning is necessary when things have gotten out of hand. When you're dealing with large suckers, it's better to pinch off just the tip than to cut off the whole thing close to the main stem. For one thing, if disease hits, it's farther away from the main stem. And for another, removing just the growing tip is less of a shock to the plant than removing a foot or so of side stem.

Suckers grow very quickly during the hot summer months. This is indeed a situation that tests one's resolve. It helps to know that side stems started this late in the season will always be spindly and produce inferior fruit. You must be heartless and tip them all.

How to tie a tomato

Once flowering commences, all tomato vines must be tied to their supports. Although vigorous, the plants are also easily damaged, so take care in how you tie them and what you use. Cloth strips work well as long as they're not too old and threadbare. Pieces of panty hose cause the least damage to plants, but they're not biodegradable. Twine should be at least 1/8 inch thick, or else it can cut into the tomato stems.

There are two types of ties. Training ties direct plant growth upwards, and supporting ties keep it there. The top foot of a tomato stem, or leader, is very succulent and easily snapped; it needs to be directed upwards, gently. I wrap a short piece of twine around the middle of the leader, cross it over on itself, and loosely tie it to the support. The resulting figure-eight tie reduces the chance the tender stem will rub against the support and get bruised.

Fruit will form along this stem. If left to the devices of the loose training ties, the weight of the fruit will pull the ties down the stake. Eventually, the stem will bend over and crease. Luckily, as the stem matures, it toughens; by the time fruit develops, the stem can tolerate a tighter tie. To support a fruit cluster as it fills and gains weight, I loop a longer piece of twine, 12 to 18 inches, around the stem just above the fruit cluster, creating a sling. Then I gently pull it up to take the weight off the stem. I wrap the twine twice around the stake, and firmly tie it to the stake 6 to 10 inches higher than the point of attachment to the vine. To keep the tie from slipping, I knot it underneath the point where the sling meets the stake.

Gardener Tip - "Never prune or tie plants when the leaves are wet"

Pruning also affects plant health. The leaves of a pruned and supported plant dry off faster, so bacterial and fungal pathogens have less opportunity to spread. Soil is less liable to splash up onto staked plants. The bottom line: Upright plants have fewer problems with leaf spots and fruit rots because their leaves stay drier and free from pathogen-laden soil.

The way you choose to train and prune your tomato plants will affect how you space your plants, as well as the best method of support . There's no one right way to do it. Instead there are a few good patterns to follow.

Vegetable Gardening Tips

2009-04-25T00:06:00.005+08:00

Vegetable Gardening Tips

1. Keep garden vegetables from getting dirty by spreading a 1-2 inch layer of mulch (untreated by pesticides or fertilizers) around each plant. This will also help keep the weeds down.
2. Compost needs time to integrate and stabilize in the soil. Apply two to three weeks prior to planting.
3. Like vining vegetables, but don't have the room? Train your melons, squash, and cucumbers onto a vertical trellis or fence. Saves space and looks pretty too.
4. Onions are ready to harvest when the tops have fallen over. Let the soil dry out, harvest, and store in a warm, dry, dark place until the tops dry. Cut off the foliage down to an inch, then store in a cool, dry area.
5. When planting a flower or vegetable transplant, deposit a handful of compost into each hole. Compost will provide transplants with an extra boost that lasts throughout the growing season.
6. Insects can't stand plants such as garlic, onions, chives and chrysanthemums. Grow these plants around the garden to help repel insects.
7. Plants will do best if they are well suited to your growing area. Take some time to read up and choose plants accordingly.
8. For easy peas, start them indoors. The germination rate is far better, and the seedlings will be healthier and better able to fight off pests and disease.
9. If you're short on space, garlic, leeks and shallots make excellent container plants. They tend to have few insect or disease problems and don't require much room for roots.
10. Another reason to use natural and organic fertilizers and soil amendments: earthworms love them! Earthworms are extremely beneficial in the vegetable garden; increasing air space in the soil and leaving behind worm castings. Do what you can to encourage earthworms in your soil.
11. Water your garden in the early morning to conserve moisture loss and to help avoid powdery mildew and other fungal diseases that are often spread by high humidity levels.
12. Some vegetables actually become better after a first frost, including kale, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, and Brussels sprouts.
13. When transplanting tomatoes, cover the stem with soil all the way up to the first set of leaves. This greatly encourages root growth, making a stronger, healthier plant.
14. Healthy soil means a thriving population of microbes, earthworms and other organisms. A soil that has "good tilth" will produce robust garden plants that are better able to resist pests and disease.
15. A simple five percent increase in organic material (compost) quadruples the soil's ability to store water.
16. If its getting cold and you have tomatoes still ripening on the vine -- save your tomatoes! Pull the plants up and bring them inside to a warm dry place. Hang them up, and the tomatoes will ripen on the vine.
17. Paint the handles of your gardens tools a bright, color other than green to help you find them amongst your plants. You can also keep a mailbox in your garden for easy tool storage.
18. There is an easy way to mix compost into your soil without a lot of back breaking work: Spread the compost over your garden in the late fall, after all the harvesting is done. Cover with a winter mulch such as hay or chopped leaves and let nature take its course. By spring, the melting snow and soil organisms will have worked the compost in for you.
19. Garden vegetables that become over-ripe are an easy target for some pests. Remove them as soon as possible to avoid detection.
20. Over watering is worse than under watering. It is easier to revive a dry plant than try to dry out drowned roots.

Transplanting Vegetables

2009-04-24T23:30:00.004+08:00

Start Indoors

Before we get to transplanting vegetables, there are few things to consider: primarily, why it's best to start vegetable plants indoors. Several reasons exist for raising seedlings indoors before transplanting them to the garden. The following are some suggestions to keep in mind.

* Seeding indoors to raise transplants conserves seeds.
* There is a higher germination rate, and more high-quality plants can be produced in a greenhouse under controlled environmental conditions.
* Starting seeds indoors extends the growing season. This is important for early yields, since plants can be ready to set out immediately after reasonable risk of frost is past. Earlier harvest is more attainable by using transplants than by direct seeding in the garden.
* Since any variety of seed can be ordered for transplant production, a grower has a much wider selection of varieties.
* The choice of varieties for available transplants is limited to the most popular varieties.

Why transplant?

Transplanting is easy to do and can be enjoyable. It can even be a money-maker for you, and it offers several advantages over buying commercially produced plants.

* Plants are available when you need them, so you don't have to wait for commercial plants to become available.
* There is less danger of getting diseased plants if you follow a few simple precautions.
* You can produce newer varieties not yet available from commercial plant growers.
* You can be sure of getting the variety you want.
* Home-produced transplants grow better after being set in the garden, because they are fresher.

Vegetables to transplant

Tomatoes, peppers, cauliflower, broccoli, eggplant, collards, cabbage and onions are usually started from transplants. If you want watermelons, cantaloupes, cucumbers, squash and other vegetables to yield earlier, you can start them indoors in peat pots.

Containers to consider

Depending on what works best for you, you'll want to consider what container to use when transplanting vegetables. The following is a description of container types and functions.

* Seed flats can be built at home out of thin, sturdy boards or purchased at supply stores. The main advantage of using flats is that more plants can fit into the same space if plants are in flats. However, if you start seeds in flats, you will need to transplant to larger cell packs or to individual pots as the seedlings get bigger.
* Peat pellets are made of compressed sphagnum peat moss contained in mesh, a pellet expands when water is applied, making the peat pot with soil ready to receive the plant or seed.
* Peat cubes are made of mesh and compressed peat moss, cubes are already expanded to receive the plant or seed.
* Peat pots are made of peat moss and other fiber, pots must be filled with soil or growth medium before seed or plants are placed in them.

Time to transplant

Tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage are usually started in seed flats then transplanted to pots so the plants have more room to develop.

Lift the plants from the seed flat when they have developed their first true leaves. Gently pry the plant up as it is being pulled to help prevent breaking the roots. Handle the plant by the leaves, not the stem. If a leaf should break, it will grow back; if you mash the stem, it will interfere with the nutrient transport system and the plant will never recover.

Water the plants after transplanting, being careful not to knock the plants down with a coarse stream of water. A single fine stream of water directed at the base of the plant is better than sprinkling water over the top.

Original article from Plancare.com

Download Agro e-Book for FREE

2009-04-23T00:29:00.015+08:00

+ + and many more..
Panduan Menanam Bawang
Panduan Menanam Bayam
Panduan Menanam Bendi
Panduan Menanam Cili Api
Panduan Menanam Cili
Panduan Menanam Emas Cotek
Panduan Menanam Halia
Panduan Menanam Jagung
Panduan Menanam Kacang Botol
Panduan Menanam Kacang Buncis
Panduan Menanam Kacang Panjang
Panduan Menanam Kangkung
Panduan Menanam Kunyit
Panduan Menanam Limau Nipis
Panduan Menanam Limau Purut
Panduan Menanam Pandan
Panduan Menanam Pegaga
Panduan Menanam Sawi
Panduan Menanam Selom
Panduan Menanam Serai
Panduan Menanam Ulam Raja

There will be more e-Book coming soon. Compilation is in progress. Thank you for your patient.

Kangkung Hydroponik - 1st Harvest

2009-04-22T23:51:00.005+08:00

Hari ini 22.04.2009 merupakan hari yang ke-23 percubaan kali kedua penanaman hydroponik. Pokok kangkung sudah boleh tuai. Tapi memandangkan hanya 4 biji benih yang aku semaikan, jadi kangkung yg tumbuh tak lah banyak...

Aku telah memotong batang kangkung di bahagian pangkalnya dan meninggalkan batang yang paling pangkal bersama-sama dengan akarnya yang terendam di dalam air. Kelihatan tunas daun baru keluar daripada batang kangkung dan boleh lah aku harvest untuk kali kedua lepas ini. Walau bagaimanapun, aku telah menyemai beberapa biji benih kangkung lagi didalam bekas hydroponik memandangkan jangka tempoh tuaian kangkung lebih cepat daripada sayur yang lain. Hasil percubaan yang pertama ini tidak lah banyak tapi cukup la untuk sekali makan kot. Walaubagaimanapun resepi kangkung belacan tetap menjadi masakan kegemaran aku.

Cili Padi Belajar Berbunga, Timun Dah Matang..

2009-04-21T00:50:00.007+08:00

Hari ini 20.04.2009 merupakan hari yang ke 33 selepas transplant kedalam polibag. Alhamdulillah kesemua pokok cili padi masih berada dalam keadaan sihat. Petang ini aku tidak menyangka sama sekali yang pokok cili padi yang masih baru untuk mengeluarkan dahan-dahan barunya sudah mengeluarkan putik-putik bunga. Ini baru minggu yang ke-4, anggapan aku sangat cepat. Kemungkinan tumbesaran pokok cili padi tidak seiring dengan pokok cili (cabai) biasa. Namun begitu ini menjadi satu pembelajaran bagi aku yang masih baru dalam penanaman pokok cili ini.

Sementara pokok timun aku lagi beberapa hari lagi akan memulakan hari tuaiannya yang pertama. Seterusnya berkemungkinan selang 2-3 hari selepas itu pokok timun akan mengeluarkan hasil tuaiannya sehingga tempoh sebulan berbuah dan pokok akan mati.

Cili Hybrid F1 939

2009-04-19T22:48:00.008+08:00

Pada awalnya aku tak pernah mendengar varieti cili hybrid F1 939 yang di perkhabarkan oleh seorang kawan aku. Tapi petang tadi, dia telah melawat ladang cili fertigasi milik seorang kawannya yang tinggal berdekatan dengan rumahnya. Ladang cili tersebut area Seri Bunian, Pontian..kalau di lihat dalam gambar yang aku postkan ini memang agak luar biasa besar dan panjang cili hybrid 939 nih..agak berlainan jika nak di bandingkan cili hybrid F1 568 atau pun cili hybrid kulai 223 atau pun cili 8338 kulai king. Biasanya panjang buah cili boleh mencecah sehingga 7 inci panjangnya aku bandingkan dengan cili kulai hybrid 568. Namun kali ini apabila kawan aku tadi menghantar gambar kepada aku, baru lah aku terkejut, sangat besar, gemuk dan juga panjang. Beratnya 200 g untuk 4 biji cili, jadi bayangkan 12 biji cili kulai hybrid F1 939 boleh mencecah berat 1 kg. Percaya atau tidak?. Panjangnya adalah 9 inci !
Jika di lihat kepada kawasan ladang cili fertigasi milik kawannya itu, terus menjadi inspirasi kepada aku untuk lebih nak mengenali jenis cili ini seterusnya ingin mencuba menanamnya. Jika ada rezeki ingin aku mencubanya nanti...

Di kala Mengingati Kangkung Hydroponik

2009-04-17T20:46:00.005+08:00

Sebentar tadi sedang aku membelek-belek gambar dalam pc nih..terlihat kangkung hydroponik aku yang hampir matang untuk di tuai. Mungkin minggu depan boleh lah aku tuai dan biarkan ianya tumbuh lagi sementara akarnya masih boleh menyerap larutan baja hydroponik dalam takungan itu. Untuk pengetahuan pembaca, jika menanam kangkung di dalam bekas hydroponik, jangan di cabut akarnya semasa menuainya kerana tunas baru akan tumbuh untuk memulakan kitaran kali kedua dan seterusnya. Jadi tak perlu lah nak tunggu benih bercambah lagi. Oppss..terlupa pulak aku. Sebenarnya aku nak berkongsi resepi dengan pembaca di sini iaitu memasak kangkung belacan. Jom tengok!

Cili Padi vs Tomato Hybrid

2009-04-15T20:37:00.005+08:00

Jika di lihat kepada saiz pokok cili padi dengan pokok tomato hybrid yang aku tanam, tidak lah ketara sangat tingginya, cuma pokok tomato lebih tinggi dan fizikalnya yang jauh berbeza. Cuma pokok tomato tu di tanam lewat 4 hari daripada hari aku mula menanam pokok tomato. Kedua-dua pokok cili padi atau tomato masih belum kuat untuk berdiri tegak dan memerlukan buluh penyokong bagi mengelakkan ianya rebah apabila di tiup angin kuat dan hujan yang lebat. Memandangkan sekarang ini tiap-tiap hari hujan, maka aku telah menguatkan sokongan pada pokok tomato dan cili tersebut.

Timun Hari Ke-31

2009-04-15T20:29:00.005+08:00

Hari ini 16.04.2008 pokok timun sedang rancak mengeluarkan putik-putik timun dan bersedia untuk membesar dan di petik. Aku kira lagi 2-3 minggu baru boleh petik buah timun tersebut. Moga-moga tiada jangkitan penyakit atau pun serangan serangga pada buah timun tersebut. Namun begitu aku tidak menyerahkan pada takdir semata-mata, penjagaan rapi dengan penyiraman baja dan juga kawalan serangga akan aku ketatkan.

Hydroponik Hari Ke-16

2009-04-15T20:22:00.005+08:00

Seperti sedia maklum, sebelum ini aku pernah gagal dalam percubaan menanam sayur menggunakan bekas hydroponik di sebabkan kekurangan sumber cahaya yang di dedahkan kepada pokok tersebut menyebabkan kesemua pertumbuhan pokok terbantut.
Jadi dua minggu yang lepas aku telah mengulang penanaman sayur menggunakan bekas hydroponik ini. Hari ini hasil yang agak memberangsangkan di mana sayur yang di tanam, tumbesarannya lebih baik daripada sebelum ini.

Penanaman Pokok Gaharu atau Kharas

2009-04-15T14:47:00.005+08:00

LATAR BELAKANG
Gaharu/Agarwood adalah pokok dalam family Thymelaeceae. Pokok yang telah matang akan membesar sehingga 40 meter tinggi dan berdiameter 40cm. Pokok gaharu di hutan semulajadi mula mengeluarkan resin gaharu pada usia 20 hingga 45 tahun, bergantung pada ketahanan pokok dan tindakbalas kecederaan pokok. Pokok gaharu amat diminati kerana dapat menghasilkan aroma yang wangi dan menyenangkan apabila dibakar kayunya.Mengikut data yang dikeluarkan pada Persidangan Gaharu Dunia pertama di Vietnam terdapat 16 spesis dari genus Aquilaria yang mempunyai nilai komersil yang tinggi.
Pokok gaharu hidup di kawasan tanah pamah sehingga ketinggian 750m dari aras laut dan memerlukan taburan hujan dan kelembapan yang tinggi. Gaharu digunakan dalam industri minyak wangi, produk perubatan, perubatan Ayurvedic, majlis keagamaan dan sebagainya.

Merealisasikan Industri Gaharu bermula Dari Penanaman Pokok Karas Secara Ladang Di Malaysia

Bila menyebut gaharu, ramai di antara kita yang membayangkan harganya yang begitu mahal sehingga ada yang mengatakan ia lebih bernilai dari emas. Harganya boleh mencecah sehingga RM14,000 - RM20,000 sekilogram untuk kepingan gaharu yang bermutu tinggi. Namun, semua hasil ini diambil dari hutan dan kini realitinya, pokok karas diancam kepupusan.

Tanpa kesedaran untuk penanaman semula, negara kita mungkin tidak lagi dapat mengeksport hasil gaharu yang begitu tinggi permintaannya ke negara-negara Timur Tengah dan juga negara lain seperti Taiwan, Jepun dan sebagainya. Mungkin kita patut menoleh ke negara jiran yang lain seperti Indonesia, Thailand dan Myamar, mereka sudah jauh meninggalkan kita dari segi teknologi dan perladangan.

Mungkin, kekurangan sumber maklumat yang tepat dan juga permulaan modal yang tinggi untuk diusahakan secara komersil menjadi faktor ia kurang diminati. Wajar, agensi - agensi kerajaan yang ada memainkan peranan dalam menyalurkan fakta yang lengkap dan perkembangan teknologi harus dicapai dalam usaha menjadikan ia sebagai industri direalisasikan.

Ramai di antara kita yang tidak sedar, usaha penanaman pokok karas sudahpun dilakukan oleh beberapa agensi yang ada di beberapa tempat di negara kita, juga penyelidikan dalam penghasilan gaharu melalui kaedah suntikan dan inokulasi juga giat dijalankan.Namun, kurangnya pendedahan dan pengumpulan maklumat, ia kurang memberi impak dalam pelaksanaannya.

Untuk mereka yang berminat dalam penanaman pokok karas, mungkin ada berita gembira. Mulai tahun hadapan (2007), teknologi dalam penghasilan gaharu akan dibawa masuk ke negara kita. Usaha menjemput Prof. Blanchette oleh satu agensi kerajaan adalah sangat tepat pada masanya. Namun, jika kita tidak menanamnya, teknologi tiada makna.

Berbalik kepada usaha penanaman pokok karas secara ladang, beberapa faktor harus dipertimbangkan seperti pemilihan anak benih, jarak tanaman, kaedah tanaman, kaedah suntikan dan pasaran. Ia harus dinilai untuk meminimakan risiko yang ada dan mendapat hasil yang maksima selepas 7 tahun pelaburan.

Pertamanya, pemilihan anak benih sering menjadi persoalan. Ada yang mengatakan spesis A lebih baik dari spesis B dan ada yang sebaliknya kerana ia lebih cepat membesar dan lebih mahal. Seharusnya kita meneliti semula beberapa kajian, pokok karas sebenarnya mempunyai method yang berbeza dengan pokok lain. Pokok yang sihat dan membesar dengan cepat menghasilkan resin gaharu yang sedikit berbanding pokok yang sakit dan diganggu.

Ia sebenarnya selari dengan kejadian semulajadi gaharu di dalam hutan, pokok yang berada di kawasan berbatu dan mengalami tindakbalas kecederaan yang teruk menghasilkan gaharu yang lebih bermutu. Kita juga harus melihat kepada permintaan pasaran, spesis manakah yang menjadi pilihan pembeli dan mempunyai harga yang tinggi. Spesis Aquilaria Malaccencis adalah merupakan salah satu spesis yang mempunyai nilai komersil yang tinggi.

Manakala kaedah penanaman, jarak penanaman 6'x6' atau 10'x10' menghasilkan jumlah tanaman pada 430 pokok atau 1,000 pokok seekar. Penanaman secara intergrasi adalah lebih meminimunkan risiko, malahan memberi pulangan jangka pendek yang boleh menampung kos keseluruhan. Sulaman boleh dilakukan dengan tanaman herba dan tanaman kontang. Penjarakkan yang sesuai harus dilihat.

Selepas pokok karas mencapai usia 5 tahun, suntikan sejenis enzim dilakukan untuk penghasilan gaharu dan dibiarkan selama 2 tahun sebelum mendapat hasil. Perlu diingatkan, tanpa teknologi ini pokok karas tidak akan membentuk gaharu di dalamnya. Berbeza dengan semulajadi, gaharu terbentuk pada usia pokok 20 - 40 tahun melalui gangguan oleh fizikal atau microrganisme.

Banyak laporan di dada akhbar dan laman web, menyatakan setiap pokok menghasilkan gaharu bernilai sehingga RM14,000 - RM18,000. Tetapi, kita perlu menilai setiap aspek dan risiko. Mungkin tidak keterlaluan jika kita meletakkan RM1,000 sahaja untuk sepokok yang menghasilkan gaharu. Bayangkan anda menanam 1,000 pokok dan anda tentu dapat mengira angkanya. Malahan jika hanya 50% sahaja yang menjadi, jumlah pendapatannya masih tinggi!

Oleh itu, amat penting untuk kita semua memperolehi sebanyak mungkin maklumat untuk merealisasikan penanaman pokok karas secara ladang. Diharapkan ada agensi yang bertindak sebagai pemantau dan dapat menyimpan data semua ladang karas di negara kita. Maklumat sebegini amat berguna untuk rujukan dimasa akan datang.

-JASBEN PLANTATION@2006

FAKTA GAHARU

Pengenalan Pokok Karas
- Aquilaria spp. adalah pokok dalam family Thymelaecae.
- Pokok yang telah matang akan membesar sehingga 40 meter tinggi dan berdiameter 40cm.
- Pokok Karas di hutan semulajadi mula mengeluarkan resin gaharu pada usia 20 hingga 45 tahun, bergantung pada ketahanan pokok dan tindakbalas kecederaan pokok.
- Terdapat 15 spesis dari genus Aquilaria mempunyai nilai komersil yang tinggi. Malaysia sendiri mempunyai 5 spesis yang amat berkualiti iaitu Aquilaria Hirta, A. Malaccencis, A. Beccariana, A. Rostrata dan A. Microcarpa.
- Hidup di kawasan tanah pamah sehingga ketinggian 750 m dari aras laut, dan memerlukan taburan hujan dan kelembapan yang tinggi.
- Pokok Karas merupakan spesis di bawah CITES Appendix II, merupakan spesis terancam kerana kepupusan populasinya.
- Gaharu digunakan dalam industri minyak wangi, produk perubatan, perubatan Ayurvedic, majlis keagaamaan dan sebagainya.

Senario di dalam Industri Gaharu
- Permintaan untuk gaharu semakin tinggi walaupun pengeluaran semakin berkurangan, menyebabkan harganya semakin meningkat setiap tahun.
- Kebanyakan gaharu dieksport kepada pemborong-pemborong di Singapura, Timur Tengah, Hongkong dan Taiwan.
- Harganya boleh mencecah sehingga RM 14 - 18 ribu sekilogram untuk gred Double Super. Malahan, harga pasaran untuk minyak gaharu juga amat tinggi iaitu sehingga RM45 ribu / kg. (kaedah penggredan kualiti kayu dan minyak masih belum dipiawaiankan dan bergantung kepada penjual dan pembeli).
- Asia Tenggara mengeksport gaharu bernilai RM48.3 million ke Arab Saudi dan bekalan hanya memenuhi 20% daripada permintaan pasaran.(sumber: TRAFFIC International 2002)
- Buat masa ini, kebanyakkan gaharu dikeluarkan daripada hasil hutan dan amat terhad. Tanpa penanaman semula, spesis ini akan terus diancam kepupusan disebabkan aktiviti pengambilan gaharu
- Penanaman gaharu di Malaysia masih baru dan belum popular, tetapi di negara lain seperti Indonesia, Thailand dan Kemboja sudah lama diusahakan. Malah ia mendapat sokongan yang amat kuat daripada pihak agensi kerajaan mereka dari segi modal dan teknologi.

Penggalakan Penanaman Gaharu Secara Ladang
bullet Penanaman pokok karas sesuai dijalankan di
1. Tanah terbiar
2. Kawasan rezab hutan simpan
3. kawasan pembalakan yang telah diterokai.
4. Dijalankan secara pertanian hutan ladang dan diintergrasikan dengan pelbagai tanaman lain seperti herba dan tanaman komoditi.
- Dapat menjana hasil ekonomi masyarakat setempat dan negara dalam bentuk eksport.
- Dapat menghijaukan bumi dan megurangkan pencerobohan kawasan hutan

Petikan dari Jasben Plantation

Pengumuman

2009-04-13T16:54:00.004+08:00

Perhatian !

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Harap maklum.

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Panduan Penanaman Serai

2009-04-11T02:25:00.007+08:00

Samada untuk kegunaan harian ataupun untuk tujuan komersil, serai di tanam bagi kebanyakkan orang, namun ramai yang belum tahu panduan menanam serai. Gambar di atas serai di tanam menggunakan pasu bagi menjimatkan ruang tanah yang sempit di rumah.

PANDUAN MENANAM SERAI
PENGENALAN
Serai makan adalah sejenis tanaman saka dari famili Graminanea. Terdapat 2 spesis serai makan yang dikenali umum di peringkat antarabangsa sebagai ‘lemongrass’ iaitu Cymbopogon citratus dan Cymbopogon flexus. Spesis C. citrates tersebar luas dikawasan beriklim tropika, termasuk Malaysia, manakala penanaman C. Flexus lebih tertumpu dikawasan Malabar, India. Negara-negara utama yang menanam serai makan secara komersial adalah India, China, Guatemala dan Brazil. Di negara-negara ini serai makan diusahakan untuk pengeluaran minyak pati.Pengeluaran minyak pati dunia dalam tahun 80an ialah kira-kira 310 tan setahun. Di Malaysia, industri pengeluaran
minyak pati serai makan atau minyak-minyak pati lain hampir tidak wujud. Oleh itu, serai makan hanya ditanam untuk kegunaan segar sebagai perisa makanan.
KEPERLUAN IKLIM DAN TANAH
Tanaman serai makan sesuai di tanam dikawasan beriklim tropika, cukup cahaya matahari dan hujan. Taburan hujan yang seragam dengan jumlah antara 250 cm dan 300 cm paling baik, walaupun tanaman ini agak tahan kepada kemarau. Tanaman ini juga sesuai dikebanyakan jenis tanah kecuali tanah yang terlalu liat dan salirannya tidak
memuaskan. Tanah gembur dari jenis lom berpasir adalah terbaik.
BAHAN TANAMAN
Tanaman serai makan C. citrates dibiak menggunakan anak berakar. Anak-anak serai perlu diambil daripada rumpun yang telah tua, berumur 8 hingga 9 bulan. Di dalam sesuatu rumpun, hanya anak-anak yang cergas iaitu sihat dan besar digunakan sebagai tanaman. Daun-daun dipotong meninggalkan batang setinggi 15-20 cm bersama dengan
akar.

PENYEDIAAN TANAH
Tanah hendaklah disediakan lebih awal supaya kerja menanam boleh dilakukan semasa permulaan musim hujan. Satu pusingan bajak piring diikuti oleh satu pusingan bajak putar biasanya mencukupi untuk mendapatkan tanah yang gembur. Sekiranya kawasan terlalu banyak rumpai, racun rumpai perlu disembur 2-3 minggu sebelum pembajakan.
PENANAMAN
Dua hingga tiga ‘batang’ serai ditanam bagi setiap lubang tanaman. Jarak tanaman dan kepadatan tanaman bergantung kepada kesuburan tanah. Untuk tanah yang kurang subur, jarak tanaman yang rapat digunakan dan sebaliknya bagi tanah yang subur.
Julat jarak antara baris ialah antara 0.6 m hingga 1.0 m manakala antara lubang dalam sesuatu baris ialah antara 0.3 m hingga 1.0 m. Pemerhatian di MARDI menunjukkan jarak tanaman 1.0 m antar baris x 0.5 m dalam baris iaitu memberi kepadatan 20,000 rumpun sehektar sesuai untuk diamalkan dikebanyakan jenis tanah.
PEMBAJAAN
Serai makan dikenali sebagai tanaman yang ‘menghauskan’ tanah. Oleh itu pembajaan yang sesuai adalah mustahak untuk menjamin kesuburan tanah dalam jangka panjang.
Keperluan pembajaan daripada segi kuantiti dan kekerapan bergantung kepada status kesuburan tanah. Biasanya baja ditabur 3 kali, sekali sebagai baja asas dan 2 kali sebagai baja tambahan. Baja asas di tabur dan digaul kedalam tanah semasa atau sebaik sahaja penanaman dilakukan. Baja tambahan pula dibubuh setiap 2 bulan selepas tanam. Jumlah baja yang diperlukan bagi sehektar tanaman ditanah mineral ialah 80-100 kg N, 40-60 kg P2O5 dan 40-80 kg K2o. Bagi Tanah gambut, kapur atau zeolite sebanyak 2.5 tan/ha perlu juga di tabur. Baja asas : Sebatian NPK 12:12:17:2
Baja Tambahan : Urea 65 kg setiap kali pembajaan dibubuh pada 2 dan 4 bulan selepas menanam.
KAWALAN RUMPAI
Ladang tanaman perlu juga dikawal daripada rumpai terutamanya diperingkat awal pertumbuhan. Sekiranya penyediaan tanah dijalankan dengan baik, satu atau dua kali merumput biasanya mencukupi. Sehingga kini belum ada laporan mengenai serangga atau penyakit ke atas tanaman serai makan.
PENUAIAN
Penuaian serai makan untuk kegunaan segar boleh dilakukan 6 hingga 8 bulan selepas ditanam. Rumpun-rumpun digali menggunakan cangkul. Akar serta daun dipotong meninggalkan batang dengan upeh daun sepanjang 10 – 15 cm. Bagi tanaman yang berkepadatan 20,000 rumpun/ha, biasanya serumpun serai menghasilkan antara 30 dan 40
batang yang boleh dipasarkan. Daun dan batang yang biasanya dibuang boleh juga disuling untuk pengeluaran minyak pati. Untuk pengeluaran minyak pati pula, penuaian pertama juga dilakukan setelah tanaman berumur 6 hingga 8 bulan. Daun-daun dipotong lebih kurang 10 cm di atas paras tanah. Rumpun-rumpun dibiarkan tumbuh semula, dibaja dan dipotong semula setiap 3-4 bulan. Selepas kira-kira 4 tahun penanaman semula perlu dilakukan kerana hasilnya semakin rendah. Hasil daun segar setiap kali penuaian/pemotongan ialah antara 8 hingga 12 tan/ha bergantung kepada umur dan kesuburan tanaman. Oleh itu, anggaran hasil bagi tahun pertama ialah 16-24 tan/ha (2 kali penuaian) dan bagi tahun-tahun berikutnya ialah 32-48 tan/ha.
KOS PENGELUARAN DAN PENDAPATAN
Dalam keadaan sekarang, dimana bilangan petani yang menanam serai makan secara komersial masih terhad, pendapatan yang didapati adalah agak lumayan untuk kegunaan segar. Dengan harga di peringkat ladang antara 2 dan 3 sen/batang (harga di Lembah Kelang). Pendapatan kasar semusim antara RM 10,000 dan RM 20,000 boleh diperolehi dari sehektar tanaman. Kos pengeluaran dianggarkan antar RM 3,000 hingga RM 4,000 sehektar.

Maklumat Pertanian - Ternakan, Tanaman, Perikanan & Agrotourism
Sekadar Info,Rujukan dan Ilmu.
Sumber/Dipetik:http://www.organikpro.com

Penanaman Tomato

2009-04-11T01:09:00.008+08:00

Keterangan Am:
Nama Biasa:
Tomato
Nama Saintifik:
Lycopersicum esculentum
Kultivar Yang Disyorkan:-
Botania Tanaman:
Batang:
Warna hijau, bercabang dan berbuku
Akar:
Akar tunjang yang kuat dan banyak akar-akar serabut
Daun:
Simple, pinnate serta berbulu
Bunga:
Bunga Warna kuning
Buah:
Banyak perbezaan warna, saiz, bentuk dan rasa
Cara pendebungan:
Swasendiri
Keperluan Asas Tanaman:
Suhu:
18 - 32°C
Taburan hujan:
260 mm/musim
Ketinggian:
Sehingga 1000 m atas paras laut
Jenis tanah :
Berbagai jenis tanah termasuk tanah gambut, BRIS dan tanah bekas lombong.
Tanah mesti mempunyai sistem saliran yang sempurna dan pengudaraan yang baik.
pH tanah:
5.5 - 6.5
Amalan Kultur:
Penyediaan Kawasan:
Kawasan dibajak dan digembur. Batas dibentuk selebar 1.2 m dan tinggi 20-30cm. Pengapuran dilakukan tidak kurang 14 hari sebelum menanam semasa pembajakan pada kadar 20-25 tan/ha. Batas ditutupi dengan sungkupan plastik selepas ditabur dengan tahi ayam.
Penanaman Di ladang:
Jenis bahan tanaman:
Bijibenih
Keperluan bijibenih:
300 g/ha
Rawatan bijibenih:
Guna racun thiram pada kadar 3g/1000g bijibenih
Semaian:
Bijibenih disemai 6 minggu sebelum menanam di atas batas semaian, dalam polibeg atau dalam kotak semaian.
Jarak tanaman:
60 cm di antara pokok dalam 1 baris/batas dan 60 cm antara baris
Kepadatan tanaman:
21,333 pokok
Menyulam:
1 minggu selepas menanam
Menyedia sokongan:
Selepas sebulan mengubah, sokong anak pokok dengan pancang kayu atau buluh.
Pemangkasan:
Tunas-tunas sisi, daun-daun tua yang berpenyakit dan daun-daun berlebihan perlu dibuang untuk menggalakkan pengudaraan yang baik
Pembajaan:
Pengurusan Air:
Pengairan dilakukan dengan menyiram atau menggunakan sistem pengairan renjis. Kos bahan bagi sistem ini adalah RM 5,000 - RM 8,000 sehektar. Perparitan diperlukan bagi kawasan yang menghadapi masalah saliran. Parit ladang dibina untuk menyalirkan air bertakung ke parit utama.
Pengurusan Perosak :

Adakah ini...?

2009-04-10T15:44:00.007+08:00

Pagi tadi selepas membelek-belek pokok timun, aku menyiram pokok cili aku dan terperasan aku pada pucuk pokok cili padi yang semacam mengecil dan berkedut melengkung kebawah. Adakah ini serangan alphid ataupun kutu trip? Seingat aku semburan razcun kawalan tak pernah miss dari jadualnya..adakah ianya kekurangan nutrien? Aku khuatiru kekurangan nutrien, jadi aku cuba untuk menyiram dengan air baja NPK green. mudah-mudahan ok selepas ini.

Bawah ini pulah merupakan gambar pokok cili di usia hari ke 23.

Timun Hari Ke-25

2009-04-10T15:14:00.003+08:00

Hari ini 10.04.2008 merupakan hari yang ke 25 pokok timun ini selepas di transplant. Kelihatan putik-putik timun sudah keluar dan bermulanya tempoh berbuah. Dalam 2 minggu lagi Insyaallah boleh lah petik timun aku nih..

Menanam Cili Kulai

2009-04-08T16:14:00.009+08:00

Hari ini 8.4.2008 aku telah mula menyemai cili kulai yang aku beli tempohari. Sebanyak 18 pokok aku telah semaikan dalam bekas semaian dengan menggunakan media semaian 'Holand Peat Moss'. Kesemua biji benih telah di tabur di dalam peat moss tersebut dan di sembur dengan spray water untuk melembabkan media.

Apa itu Peat Moss?

2009-04-08T15:53:00.006+08:00

Peatmoss adalah gambut yang asal-asalnya dari moss (dari lumut-lumutan) seperti spagnum. Bahan ini terbentuk selama ribuan tahun, dalam lingkungan rawa-rawa, di beberapa bahagian di dunia.

Peatmoss ini merupakan media semaian di peringkat awal penanaman tanaman sayuran. Ianya di gunakan bagi mengalakkan pertumbuhan anak benih pokok. Di samping itu ianya juga dapat mengurangkan jangkitan serangan penyakit yang di sebabkan oleh kekurangan nutrien semasa tempoh semaian.

Video Laman Agro

2009-04-08T03:09:00.004+08:00

Video ini adalah keadaan sebenar mengenai penanaman beberapa jenis sayuran di rumah aku mengikut kaedah convensional. Insyaallah dalam masa yang terdekat ini aku akan mengalihkan pula kepada kaedah berteknologi seperti fertigasi dan juga aquaponic hydroponic. Beberapa video pokok timun, pokok cili padi dan juga pokok tomato telah di rakamkan petang tadi bersama dengan anak kecilku yang comel.

Sedikit Info Mengenai Penanaman Cili

2009-04-07T12:32:00.009+08:00

Benih Pokok Yang Hebat
1. Hybrid 233
2. Hybrid F1 469
3. hybrid 833

Media Semaian
a. Peat Moss

Media Tanaman
1. Sabut kelapa proses
2. Cocopeat (entah apa tu)
3. Sekam wap

Jenis Baja
Apa itu NPK?
N >> Untuk pertumbuhan daun
P >> Untuk pertumbuhan akar & buah
K >> Untuk buah dan penyakit
1. NPK 15:15:15 (pokok berumur 16 hari hingga mula berbunga)
2. NPK 12.12.17+MgO2+TE (Selepas berbunga)

Racun
1. Racun Avemec/mafa malathion-guna selepas pokok dipindah dlm polybag
2. Mancozeb baja kulat--guna mase buah baru berputik.
Jenis penyakit dan mengatasi serangga hama,kutu daun,lelompat daun, rama2 putih,ulat ratus- pegasus,malathion,cypermethrin,deltamethrin, dan lain-lain. Sembur atas dan bawah daun sebab seranggan ni bertelur dan bersarang di bawah daun.

Kulat
Anthracnose, hawar pucuk,,bintik daun mancozeb, amistar,topsin M,antracol dll.

Cara penggunaan kena ikut arahan label. selepas 2-3 kali semburan kena tukar racun lain sebab takut serangga atau kulat jadi rintang.

Pertumbuhan Pokok
1. 3 ke 4 hari biji benih telah bercambah
2. 9 hari pokok mencapai 7cm

Jarak Penanaman
Jarak antara pokok 2.5 kaki dan jarak antara baris 5 kaki

Download Info Penanaman Cili Di Sini
Download Pelan Pemasaran Cili Di Sini

Varieti Pokok Cili Di Malaysia

2009-04-06T23:21:00.007+08:00

Varieti Pokok Cili

i. MARDI MC11:
Pedas, menyerupai Kulai dari segi bentuk, berhasil tinggi (17-24 mt/ha), tinggi pokok 80–110 cm, panjang buah 8–10 cm, 7–10g/biji, cili ini mengeluarkan hasil 10 minggu selepas ditanam dan pemetikan hasil sebanyak 30 kali semusim dan ia berbuah secara berterusan.
Ia mempunyai kandungan pepejal sebanyak 20% yang sesuai untuk kegunaan pemprosesan, menunjukkan toleran terhadap penyakit anthraknos (7% jangkitan) dan penyakit hawar
pucuk Choenophora. Kulit MC11 berkilat dan dapat mengekalkan warna walaupun selepas diproses. Dengan mempunyai ciri-ciri varieti yang baik, MC11 berpotensi untuk pasaran segar dan
pemprosesan.

ii. MARDI MC12:
Sederhana pedas, mempunyai cirri masak serentak dan matang awal. Tinggi pokok 60–80 cm, panjang buah 10–13 cm, 12 – 14 g/biji, oleh kerana daunnya tebal, MC12 kurang digemari oleh beberapa serangga perosak. Hasil tinggi 15-25 mt/ha. Ia mengeluarkan hasil 7 minggu selepas ditanam dan sangat produktif cepat matang tahan penyakit dan penuaian selang 5 hingga 6 hari sekali.

iii. Cili padi
Selain dari dua variety di atas, kini MARDI juga telah membangunkan beberapa cili padi yang mempunyai hasil tinggi menandingi varieti cili tempatan.

Jenis-jenis cili tempatan yang lain termasuklah yang CILIBANGGI yang telah dibangunkan oleh UKM seperti berikut:

i. CILIBANGI-1:
Untuk kegunaan segar, mempunyai ciri masak serentak, biomas optima dan kurang masalah rebah. Purata hasil 1.17 kg/pokok.

ii. CILIBANGI-2:
Jenis untuk cili kering, berpotensi untuk ditanam oleh pekebun kecil. Purata hasil 1.02 kg/pokok.

iii. CILIBANGI-3:
Stabil, sangat pedas, sesuai untuk kegunaan segar dan berhasil tinggi.

iv. CILIBANGI–4:
Buah masak kering di pokok, oleh itu sesuai untuk cili kering. Saiz pokok kecil dan rendah, dan boleh ditanam dengan kepadatan 44,000 pokok/ha.

v. CILIBANGI-5:
Hasil buah juga tinggi, kurang pedas dan sesuai untuk makan segar.

vi. CILIBANGI-6:
Saiz buah lebih besar dari CILIBANGGI-5, kering dipokok, dan buahnya pedas.

vii. CILI Kulai :
Jenis tempatan yang berbentuk panjang dan pedas. Varieti Kulai terdapat sebanyak
7 jenis cili kulai yang diusahakan di Malaysia. Penanaman jenis tersebut adalah bergantung kepada di mana sumber benih tersebut diperolehi.

Antara jenis Cili Kulai yang terdapat di pasaran
ialah :
a. CA 905 F1 Cili Kulai 905
b. CA 907 F1 Cili Kulai 905
c. CA 910 Kulai Tempatan
d. CA 914 F1 Cili Kulai Pedas
e. CA 915 F1 Cili Kulai Kering
f. CA 908 Cabai Kulai Kerinting
g. F1 Cili Kulai 568
h. F1 Cili Kulai 223
i. 8338 Kulai King.

Paling baru Hybrid F1 469 ketinggian pokok 35 cm (180 biji sepokok)
Hybrid 833 ketinggian pokok 2- 6 kaki (55 biji berat utk 1 kg buah bagi sepokok)

Tips Penyemaian Biji Benih

2009-04-06T16:50:00.006+08:00

Beberapa minggu lepas ada aku postkan tips penyemaian biji benih. Itu pun aku ambil daripada perkongsian org lain dan aku cuba sendiri. Alhamdulillah ianya membantu pembesaran semaian biji benih.

Klik pada imeg untuk pembesaran
1. Sediakan bahan-bahan seperti di atas.
2. Spraykan tisu dengan air untuk berikan kelembapan yang sekata.
3. Isikan biji benih ke dalam sebuah cawan. Tuang air sehingga memenuhi ¾ cawan tersebut. Tambahkan 1 sudu garam.
4. Biarkan biji benih selama 15 minit untuk membunuh kuman.
5. Toskan. Tebarkan tisu yang lembap itu, tabur biji benih ke atas permukaan tisu tersebut. Tutup dan lipat. Simpan dalam plastik lutsinar (beg plastik)
6. Tiup dengan nafas sehingga plastik kembung.
7. Ikat dengan kemas dan jemur di bawah matahari. Plastik sedia untuk di buka selepas 24-36jam.
8. Selepas 36 jam, buka plastik dan keluarkan anak benih, masukkan dalam tray anak semaian.
9. Gulung semula surat khabar dan ulangi langkah 5 ke langkah 8 untuk biji benih yang belum bercambah. Klik pada imeg untuk pembesaran

Cucumber

2009-04-06T12:58:00.005+08:00

As you can see in the picture above, the cucumber plantation using polibag is usable for a limited space at your home. Normally who are living nearby the big city will facing with limited space to plant the vegetable and flower. So I suggest to utilized the polibag and racks. All these thing is very economic and can save alot of money compared if you using pot for plant.
The picture below is the cucumber's female flowers fall to the ground after heavy rain yesterday.

Hydroponic 2nd Testing Update

2009-04-06T12:34:00.007+08:00

Hari ini 6.4.2008. Gambar-gambar di atas dan di bawah merupakan update perkembangan penanaman sayuran menggunakan kedah hydroponik. Hari merupakan hari yang ke-7 penanaman hydroponik. Kangkung sangat cepat membesar sementara pokok sayur baby sawi dan juga bunga kobis agak sekata pembesaran benihnya. Benih salad pulak masih lagi mengeluarkan cambahnya lagi. Jadi malam tadi aku telah taburkan dengan benih salad yang baru aku beli dengan benih cili kulai kelmarin.

Baja NPK & Baja Organic

2009-04-06T12:25:00.005+08:00

Sambil-sambil kemas-kemas tadi sempat pula aku snapkan bekas-bekas simpanan baja yang aku pakai untuk kegunaan pokok sayur dan juga bunga kat rumah aku ni. Aku hanya menyimpan baja-baja yang common used sahaja seperti Baja NPK Blue (NPK:12:12:17) dan Baja NPK Green(NPK:15:15:15) serta Baja Foliar dan Baja Organic Tahi Ayam.

House Keeping

2009-04-06T12:04:00.004+08:00

Minggu lepas jiran sebelah rumah aku telah di masuki dengan anak ular. Diaorg pulak semua perempuan. Makcik tu aku panggil 'mummy' ajer dan beliau seorang ibu tunggal tinggal bersama dengan anak dan cucunya. Dia keturunan pakistan-malay. Masa ular tu memasuki rumahnya, aku tiada di rumah, terpaksa lah dia panggil brother cina kat depan rumahnya tu untuk tangkap ular tu keluar dan buang jauh daripada rumah. Itu lah bahayanya kalau kawasan rumah kita semak dengan barang-barang simpanan dan juga semak lalang yang tumbuh.

Memandangkan lalang tiada di belakang rumah aku, cuma barang-barang berkebun ajer yang ada, jadi aku amik inisiatif untuk buat para-para tempat simpan barang-barang berkebun dan ini lah hasilnya dengan kos sebanyak RM13 sahaja (Plywood RM 7 + Angle Support RM6). Boleh lah kalau nak di bandingkan dengan yang di beli maybe yang di beli lagi cantik kot hehe..tapi memadailah dengan apa yang aku perlu setakat ini..jimat dan lebih ekonomi ;)

Support Bamboo for Chillies and Tomatoes

2009-04-06T11:59:00.002+08:00

Seperti yang aku cerita semalam, semua pokok cili padi dan tomato telah aku pancangkan dengan penyokong buluh bagi mengelakkan pokok-pokok tumbang di tiup angin dan hujan yang lebat. Alhamdulillah pagi ni aku lihat semua pokok-pokok sudah kembali tegak dengan bantuan buluh pancang yang telah aku pacakkan dalam polibag tersebut.

Aquaponic Gardening: What Is Aquaponics?

2009-04-05T21:06:00.002+08:00

Aquaponics or integrated hydroponics is the symbiotic cultivation of plants and aquatic animals in a re-circulating environment. Aquatic animal waste matter (accumulates in water as a by-product of keeping them in a closed system or tank. The effluent-rich water becomes high in plant nutrients but this is also toxic to the aquatic animal.

In this re-circulating system the plants are grown in a way that enables them to utilize the nutrient-rich water. As the plants feed on the nutrients, the water's toxicity for the aquatic animal is reduced or eliminated. The water, now clean, is returned to the aquatic animal environment and the cycle continues.

Aquaponic systems do not discharge or exchange water. The systems rely on the natural relationship between the aquatic animals and the plants to maintain the environment. The only time that water is added, is to replace water loss from absorption by the plants or evaporation into the air.

Aquaponic systems vary in size from small indoor units to large commercial units. They can use fresh or salt water depending on the aquatic animal and vegetation.

There are unique advantages to Aquaponics. Some of these include:

* Preservation through constant water reuse and recycling.
* Organic fertilization of plants with natural fish waste.
* The reduction of needed cropland to produce like crops.
* The overall reduction of environmental footprint for crop production.
* Small efficient commercial installations can be built close to markets therefore reducing the amount of miles food must travel.

With the advantages come the disadvantages. Those inherent with aquaponics are:

* Initial expense for housing, tank, plumbing, pumps and grow beds.
* Some Aquaponic installations rely heavily on man-made energy, technology solutions, and environmental control to achieve recirculation and water/ambient temperatures. However a system designed with energy conservation in mind can be extremely energy efficient.
* Aquaponics systems can have multiple 'single points of failure' where problems such as an electrical failure or pipe blockage can lead to a complete loss of fish stock. But again, you can design the system to avoid such failure.

While Aquaponic may not appeal to the average gardening enthusiast and it may not be as sustainable as the old fashioned dirt method, aquaponics is, nonetheless, a unique way to grow in a symbiotic arrangement which mimics one of nature's best systems.

Original Source from Green Earth Traveler

Hujan Lebat di Petang Ahad...

2009-04-05T20:46:00.002+08:00

Petang tadi hujan berterusan turun dengan lebat sekali. Maka tak payah lah aku siram pokok-pokok sayuran aku tu lagi..tapi yang sedihnya banyak juga bunga pokok timun jatuh berguguran. Ada rahmat di sebaliknya...dah beberapa hari tak hujan, jadi hari ini Allah turunkan rahmat kepada kita semua alhamdulillah...

Pokok-pokok cili juga seolah-olah terkulai di hembus angin dan hujan yang kuat. Ikutkan teorinya, serapan air yang berlebihan kepada pokok-pokok cili-padi yang masih kecil akan menyebabkan batang-batang dan dahan-dahan akan menjadi lembik. Kesian semua pokok-pokok cili padi tu..hehe..

Untuk mengelakkan pokok-pokok cili tersebut patah, aku telah memancang buluh sebagai penyokong kepada batang-batang pokok buat sementara waktu..nanti dah besar aku akan sokongnya menggunakan tali memandangkan kesemua pokok cili aku di tanam di atas rak kayu. Jadi senang lah sikit nak modified nanti..

Pokok-pokok tomato juga telah menjadi lembik batangnya..harap-harap sampai pagi esok hujan tidak turun dan menjelang pagi matahari di harapkan agar dapar mengeraskan kembali batang-batang pokok tomato yang lembik. Walaubagaimana pun, aku telah meletakkan buluh penyokong mengelakkan daripada tumbang. Kesemua foto tak sempat nak ambil memandangkan hari dah gelap..berjumpa lagi esok..

Cili Kulai, Salad dan Hydroponik

2009-04-05T11:47:00.007+08:00

Hari ini 5.5.2008. Pagi tadi aku keluar kejap pergi cari cat untuk cat pintu tempat sampah kat rumah aku yang telah berkarat dan berlubang dek kena karat yang teruk. Selepas di gosok dengan kertas pasir aku akan cat semula dengan cat lain untuk baikinya dan supaya kelihatan lebih menarik. Selepas cari barang tu aku pergi survey-survey lah barang-barang untuk aku buat system hydroponik nanti..tak lah mahal sangat kalau paip PVP putih tu kalau satu batang 13 meter baru RM 30 ajer. Cuma nak beli set penebuk tu yang mahal sikit dalam RM 40 lebih. Aku anggarkan untuk complete set system hydroponik yang seperti di dalam link ini [Hydroponic].

Selepas selesai survey harga bagi barang di perlukan, aku pergi ke tempat nurseri cari benih cili kulai dengan benih salad. Memandangkan benih yang aku beli sebelum ini tidak tumbuh, aku menjangkakan benih yang sebelum ini tidak berapa baik. Harap-harap dengan benih dari taiwan ini lebih bermutu dan kualiti produknya.

Insyaallah petang ini aku akan semai benih cili tersebut dan benih salad tersebut untuk penanaman hydroponik aku.

Hydroponik 2nd Testing

2009-04-03T22:53:00.004+08:00

Hari ini 3.4.2008 merupakan hari yang ke 3 penanaman hydroponik aku yang kali ke-2 percubaan dengan set DIY Kazz. Benih kangkung dan juga bunga kobis telah bercambah sementara baby sawi dan juga salad masih belum mengeluarkan cambahannya..petang tadi aku telah melarutkan dengan larutan baja hydroponik kedalam bekas tersebut memandangkan kangkung telah mengeluarkan akar yang panjang kedalam air. Insyaallah bila kesemua benihnya mula mengeluarkan cambahannya akan aku snapkan gambarnya kedalam blog ini..

Insyallah selepas harvest pertama penanaman hydroponik ini, aku nak buat sendiri system Aeroponik Hydroponik sendiri dengan menggunakan apa yang aku belajar dan research di internet. Jadi tunggukan kemunculannya!

Update Timun dan Cili Padi

2009-04-03T22:35:00.008+08:00

Ini adalah kali ketiga cubaan aku untuk meng upload gambar kat blog ni... sangat seksa nak dapat upload siap-siap sebab line internet masih lagi macam kura-kura..

Okey, perkembangan pokok timun aku sangat baik..sehingga petang tadi aku lihat ada banyak bunga-bunga telah keluar. Alhamdulillah..jika tiada halangan lagi 2 minggu boleh lah petik buahnya nanti. Aku juga telah menabur baja NPK Blue di dalam polibag tadi untuk merangsang pengeluaran bunga dan seterusnya buah timun yang baik.

Kesemua pokok cili padi aku nampaknya masih dapat bertahan dengan baik sehingga ke hari ini..yer lah kan..pokok tak lah banyak dalam 10 batang ajer boleh lah jaga dengan baik..cuba kalau sampai 3000 ke..10,000 ker..boleh ker?? hehe..baru tinggi 4.5 inci aku ukur petang tadi pada umurnya 16 hari selepas transplant..ini cuma lah hobi dan aku jadikan sebagai percubaan untuk aku melangkah dengan lebih jauh lagi..untuk mengenali tabiat pokok, penyakitnya, pemakanannya dan sebagainya..aku doakan percubaan aku ini berjaya dengan hasilnya nanti..amin..

Internet Slow!

2009-04-03T20:34:00.004+08:00

Sehingga internet pulih seperti biasa aku akan memperlahankan daripada menulis do blog ini di sebabkan perkhidmatan internet sangat perlahan untuk uploading dan downloading.

Info by Telekom Malaysia Berhad

SERVICE INTERUPTION

Telekom Malaysia Berhad (TM) wishes to announce that there is a disruption of its Internet services due to circuit faults on the SMW3 between Tuas, Singapore and Penang linking Malaysia to Hong Kong and APCN2 near Chongming, China connecting Malaysia to the United States. As a result, customers using the Internet services may experience slow browsing while accessing websites hosted in the U.S. and Hong Kong.

In addition, customers using other IP services such as Virtual Private Network (VPN) and other critical business applications linked to the U.S. and Hong Kong may also experience some service degradation.

To alleviate the problem, some of the links have been rerouted to alternate routes to ease the congestion.

Restoration works on the affected cables are already in progress. However, during the restoration process, traffic to Northern America and Hong Kong may experience degradation. However, traffic to other countries will not be affected. TM expects complete recovery of its services by 5 April 2009 and will make further announcements on the progress of the restoration works.

TM wishes to assure its customers that it is undertaking all necessary measures to restore communications services for its customers as soon as possible.

Customers can call TM at 100 and select “Internet Services” or e-mail us at help@tm.com.my for any Internet related problems.

Percubaan Tanaman Hydroponik Gagal

2009-03-31T00:42:00.002+08:00

Hari ini merupakan hari yang ke 20 penanaman pokok sayur di dalam bekas hydroponik Kazz yang di beli 3 minggu yang lepas daripada salah seorang wakil jualannya di daerah Johor Bahru. Memandangkan pengalaman ini masih baru buat aku jadi banyak info aku bertanyakan pada wakil penjual tersebut. Tumbesaran pokok sayur yang di tanam di dalam bekas hydroponik amat tidak memberangsangkan dan semacam terbantut. Kelihatan kulat-kulat telah mula tumbuh di dalam bakul bekas hydroponik. Aku tak sempat nak ambil gambarnya di tambah terlupa untuk di masukkan di dalam blog ini. Namun kesemua anak benih sayur tersebut telah aku keluarkan dan esok akan aku cuba pindahkan ke dalam polibag untuk mengelakkan daripada membazir. Kalau pokok sayur tu tumbuh alhamdulillah, kalau tak pun takper..sebab ini masih dalam proses mencuba.

Walau bagaimanapun, aku telah menelefon wakil jualan hydroponik kazz tersebut dan beliau mengatakan bekas hydroponik tersebut hendaklah di letakkan di tempat pancaran matahari. Mulanya semasa aku membeli bekas hydroponik tersebut, beliaumengatakan ianya OK jika meletakkan di bawah awning rumah memandangkan beliau pun meletakkan 3 bekas hydroponik beliau di bawah awning rumah beliau. Beliau juga telah memberitahu aku yang tanaman hydroponik beliau juga terbantut dek tidak mendedahkan bekas hydroponik itu kepada matahari. Jadi method penanaman hydroponik kami salah! haha..kelakar sunggu..sampai dengan aku pun terkena. Jangkaan aku tidak mengapa jika di letakkan di bawah awning rumah memandangkan awning rumah pun kira hampir dengan sinaran matahari. Kebanyakkan semua pokok bunga kat rumah aku nih pun di bawah awning rumah sebenarnya..tu yg aku ambil tak kisah ajer hehe..apa-apa pun esok aku akan menyemai benih yang baru dan akan meletakkan di bawah matahari..tetapi banyakkan sikit kerja nak kena buat..maklumlah sekarang nih..hujan tak menentu..sekejap tengok panas terik..lagi 10 minit dah hijan lebat..sebaik-baiknya kalau dapat sediakan rumah pelindung hujan (RPH)...

Timun Hari Ke-14

2009-03-29T11:23:00.002+08:00

Alhamdulillah tumbesaran pokok timun sangat baik. Belum ada tanda serangan serangga perosak lagi. Kemungkinan ianya masih 'remaja' lagi sebab tu serangga belum menyerang lagi. Hari ini merupakan hari ke 14 selepas transplant kedalam polibag. Pokok timun ini membesar dengan cepat sekali dan banyak jejarinya keluar untuk memanjat dan mencari ruang sendiri di tempat penanaman. Di celah-celah dahan kelihatan beberapa tunas-tunas bunga sedang keluar.

Cili Padi Hari ke-12 Transplant

2009-03-29T11:09:00.005+08:00

Hari ini adalah hari yang ke-12 selepas transplant kedalam polibag. Keadaan 10 batang pokok berada dalam keadaan baik kecuali satu pokok yang 'mungkin menunjukkan tanda serangan daun kerekot. Walau bagaimanapun aku tak pasti itu adalah tanda awal serangan ataupun daun belum mula mengembang lagi. Lagi pun dua hari yang lepas aku baru menyembur dengan racun kawalan perosak Pegasus 250 SC.

How To Prune Tomatoes

2009-03-27T22:57:00.003+08:00

Pruning Tomatoes Pruning tomatoes is one of the easiest and most beneficial things you can do to increase fruit size and help lessen the chances of disease. Here is the simple video teach you how to prune tomatoes plant.

Mencantas dahan pokok cili

2009-03-27T22:12:00.007+08:00

Amalam mencantas dahan di awal pertumbuhan pokok cili amat-amat di galakkan bagi merangsang pokok cili mencapai ketinggian yang idea untuk mengeluarkan bunga dan berbuah. Amalam mencantas dahan pokok cili ini di percayai juga boleh mengekalkan keseimbangan serapan baja ke seluruh kawasan pokok di mana jika banyak dahan makan akan banyak kapasiti baja yang di perlukan dan keseimbangan baja kepada pokok cili akan berkurangan.
Ketika melakukan kerja mencantas ini hendaklah berhati di khuatiri akan merosakkan batang cili yang masih lembut. Kita boleh menggunakan pisau ataupun gunting semasa mencantas.
Petang tadi setelah selesai menyiram kesemua pokok-pokok cili padi dengan air baja tahi ayam, aku memulakan kerja-kerja mencantas dahan pokok cili.

Info : Klik Di Sini

Membuat Baja Kompos Daripada Bahan Organik

2009-03-26T23:40:00.010+08:00

FERTIGASI

2009-03-26T23:29:00.002+08:00

(Dipetik dari majalah Wawasan Pertanian Bil. 16/2002)

Kaedah fertigasi merupakan satu kaedah baru yang ditemui bagi menjalankan penanaman sayur-sayuran dalam tempoh masa jangka pendek. Kaedah ini tidak memerlukan tanah sebagai media tanaman. Medium-medium yang boleh digunakan seperti sabut kelapa, pasir sungai, sekam padi, vermikulit, perlit dan habuk kayu. Beberapa jenis sayur-sayuran seperti tomato, cili, terung panjang, timun jepun, kobis bulat, lobak putih dan tembikai wangi sesuai menggunakan kaedah penanaman secara fertigasi.

Nutrien

Nutiren atau baja diberikan kepada tanaman secara sistem pengairan. Nutrien disalurkan dalam bentuk larutan dan dititiskan ke pangkal tanaman untuk membasahi zon perakaran.

Nutrien-nutrien yang dititiskan terdiri daripada nutrien NPK (Nitrogen, Fosforos dan Kalium) sebagai unsur utama. Manakala pemakanan makro pula terdiri daripada unsur-unsur surih seperti Kalsium (Ca.) Magnesium (Mg), Sulfur (S), Ferum (Fe), Mangan (Ma), Kuprum (Cu), Kobaltam (Co), Zink (Zn), Boron (Bo), Klorin (CI) dan Molibdenum (Mo). Kaedah ini juga dikenali sebagai 'Hodroponik Beraggregat'. Larutan-larutan nutrien yang dianggap sebagai nadi kepada kaedah fertigasi ini diagihkan dalam tiga cara itu secara Aliran Graviti, Pam Elektrik dan Penyuntik baja. Aliran graviti boleh dilakukan secara manual oleh pengusaha mengikut kehendak dan jangka masa yang ditetapkan olehnya. Air dan baja yang telah dibuat, disalirkan ke tangki penyimpanan yang diletakkan di tempat yang tinggi.

Dengan menggunakan tenaga graviti, baja tadi akan disalirkan ke tanaman. Cara ini lebih praktikal digunakan oleh petani-petani memandangkan kosnya yang lebih rendah. Manakala pam elektrik dan penyuntik baja pula menggunakan tenaga elektrik dan motor untuk pembajaan. Tempoh masa pembajaan telah ditetapkan oleh pengusaha. Oleh itu kosnya adalah lebih tinggi. Seringkali kedua-dua cara ini digunakan oleh penyelidik-penyelidik untuk mendapatkan keputusan penyelidikan yang tepat.

Setiap tanaman mempunyai kadar nutrien yang berbeza. Para pengusaha hendaklah bijak dalam melakukan formulasi nutrien dan peka kepada tindakbalas pokok terhadap setiap formulasi nutrien yang dibuat. Tindakbalas ini menunjukkan kesesuaian tanaman terhadap formulasi nutrien yang dirumuskan.

Kelebihan

Dengan menggunakan kaedah fertigasi, masalah tanah seperti keluasan tanah terhad, tanah tidak subur, perumah penyakit dan perosak dapat diatasi kerana mikroorganisma penyebab penyakit yang selalu dibawa oleh tanah boleh dikawal kerana tanah tidak digunakan. Nutrien lengkap dititiskan mengikut jumlah, keperluan tanaman serta peringkat pertumbuhannya. Nutrien yang dibekalkan tidak terbazir kerana digunakan terus oleh akar tumbuhan. Oleh itu, keperluan tenaga buruh bagi tujuan kerja-kerja membaja dan merumput dapat dikurangkan.

Masalah merumpai bukan lagi menjadi masalah utama. Oleh itu penggunaan racun ke atas tanaman dapat dikurangkan. Penggunaan baja adalah lebih cekap kerana baja yang diberi adalah mengikut formulasi yang diperlukan oleh tanaman. Hasil yang diperolehi adalah lebih tinggi dan boleh mencapai pada kadar kira-kira 700% jika dibandingkan dengan cara penanaman dengan menggunakan tanah sebagai medium. Hasil tanaman tidak tercemar oleh tanah dan akan kelihatan lebih bersih.

Keperluan infrastruktur

1. Rumah Lindungan
Rumah lindungan didirikan bagi mengekalkan kelembapan, mengelakkan pancara ultra unggu serta terik cahaja matahari yang berlebihan.

2. Sistem pengairan (titisan)
Sistem Pengiaran terdiri daripada pusat kawalan nutrien, paip ladang dan penitis (2L/H).

3. Punca Air
Air boleh didapati dari kolam, telaga, telaga tiub dan lain-lain. Air yang digunakan hendaklah bersih, jernih, bebas daripada penyakit dan pencemaran, tidak berbau dan mempunyai kandungan oksigen yang tinggi.

4. Baja Fertigasi
Baja yang disediakan haruslah sesuai dengan tanaman agar dapat menghasilkan hasil yang tinggi.

5. Alat Pengukur pG dan EC Larutan
Terdapat banyak pilihan yang boleh digunakan bagi mengiiut nilai pH dan nilai EC. Biasanya 'pocket size' pH meter dan EC meter atau 'portable pH/EC/TDS meter'.

6. Media
Kadar pegangan air adalah dalam 60-80% dan udara 20-40%. Contoh: campuran habuk sabut kelapa dan arang sekam padi (1:1).

7. Biji Benih
F1 hibrid (Holland seed) menjadi pilihan. Tahap ketahanan rintang penyakit lebih terjamin, merupakan biji benih yang berkualiti dan untuk mendapatkan kadar percambahan yang maksimum.

8. Bekas Tanaman
Bekas tanaman yang sering digunakan adalah polybeg 12" x15" atau 12" x 17".

Cara-cara Penyediaan Kaedah Fertigasi

Batu kelikir yang berukuran 1.3-1.9 cm diletakkan di dalam beg plastik atau saluran yang berdindingkan simen atau kaca gentian. Titisan nutrien dimasukkan dari bahagian permukaan beg tersebut secara graviti. Tititsan nutrien ini dibiarkan untuk 5-10 minit sehingga kelihatan larutan tersebut keluar semula dri bahagian bawah beg.

Rumah lindingan haruslah dibina bagi mengelakkan larutan nutrien menjadi cair apabila hujan. Bahan-bahan lain seperti Ttildenet boleh juga dibuat atap tetapi mestilah tidak menyekat kemasukan cahaya matahari dengan banyak ke dalam struktur tersebut. Frekuensi dan volume penyiraman seharusnya disesuaikan dengan keadaan cuaca, jenis dan umur tanaman, fasa pertumbuhan tanaman dan jenis media yang digunakan. Jika keadaan cuaca hujan, frekuensi penyiraman hendaklah dikurangkan kerana media akan menjadi terlalu basah dan memberi kesan kepada pertumbuhan akar tumbuhan tersebut. Keseimbangan yang sesuai antara air, udara, baja yang hendak digunakan dan media tanaman hendaklah dititikberatkan.

Nilai EC (jumlah baja yang larut dalam air) dan nilai pH (tingkat persamaan) sesuatu larutan adalah penting. Ini akan menunjukkan berapa banyak unsur nutrien yang tersedia buat tanaman tersebut. Jumlah nutrien tidak dapat distandardkan kerana perbezaan antara iklim, media dan jenis tanaman. Kadar kepekatan (EC) yang diberikan untuk tanaman haruslah disesuaikan dengan situasi dan keadaan. Nilai pH yang sesuai adalah antara 5.0-6.0 kerana pada kadar ini, semua unsur nutrien dapat diserap oleh tanaman.

Waktu penyiraman, jumlah penyiraman, EC/pH ini, EC/pH out, suhu, RH dan keadaan cuaca harus dicatatkan. Data-data ini nanti akan membantu pengusaha dalam mengambil keputusan untuk merubah satu-satu formulasi.

Tips Baja Udang

2009-03-26T16:49:00.002+08:00

Tahukah anda bahawa sisa udang yang tidak di gunakan seperti kepala dan kulitnya boleh di jadikan sebagai baja organik kepada tumbuhan anda? Ayuh mari lah kita mencuba dengan menggunakan bahan sisa makanan yang terbuang. Jangan membazir ;)

Baja udang (sumber chitosan)

Bahan: Kepala dan kulit udang

Arahan : Tanam kepala udang dan kulit udang dan juga tulang ikan pada pokok
bunga atau pokok buah-buahan

Hasilnya: pucuk, bunga dan buah makin naik dengan gemuknya.

Cara Menyemai Biji Benih

2009-03-26T01:09:00.003+08:00

1. Sediakan 2 helai surat khabar di rendam dalam besen berisi air (2-3jam)
2. Isikan biji benih ke dalam sebuah cawan. Tuang air sehingga memenuhi ¾ cawan tersebut. Tambahkan 1 sudu garam.
3. Biarkan biji benih selama 15 minit untuk membunuh kuman.
4. Toskan. Tebarkan surat khabar yang lembap itu, tabur biji benih ke atas permukaan salah satu helaiannya. Tutup dan gulung. Simpan dalam plastik lutsinar (beg plastik)
5. Tiup dengan nafas sehingga plastik kembung.
6. Ikat dengan kemas dan jemur di bawah matahari. Plastik sedia untuk di buka selepas 36jam.
7. Selepas 36 jam, buka plastik dan keluarkan anak benih, masukkan dalam tray anak semaian.
8. Gulung semula surat khabar dan ulangi langkah 5 ke langkah 8 untuk biji benih yang belum bercambah.

Pokok timun : Hari ke - 21

2009-03-26T01:02:00.004+08:00

Kelihatan pokok timun yang di tanam di dalam polibag (3 polibag sahaja) sedang membesar dengan baik dan telah mula mengeluarkan jejarinya bagi memanjat pada tempat sokongan. Tempat sokongan ini aku buat dengan menggunakan tali rafia sahaja. Mengikut pengamatan aku, tali rafia ini tak berapa bagus berbanding jika kita menggunakan ranting-ranting kayu kerana permukaannya yang agak licin. Walaubagaimanapun, kita akan lihat keberkesanan sokongan dengan menggunakan tali rafia ini. Memandangkan kat bandar johor bahru ini agak susah bagi aku nak mencari ranting2 kayu kering untuk di jadikan kayu sokongan maka aku telah menggunakan alternatif tali rafia sebagai sokongan kenapda pokok timun ini.

Cili Padi : Hari ke - 8 Penanaman

2009-03-26T00:47:00.005+08:00

Hari ini adalah hari ke -8 anak cili di alihkan kedalam polibag. Kesemua 7 polibag cili padi membesar dengan subur. Belum ada sebarang tanda-tanda serangan penyakit atau juga serangga perosak.

Sempat juga aku menambahkan lagi 3 polibag pokok cili padi memandangkan masih ada anak cili padi yang membesar di dalam pasu semaian dengan baik. Harapan aku semoga tanaman cili padi ini lebih subur dan membesar dengan baik. Untuk pengetahuan pembaca semua, aku hanya menggunakan baja tahi ayam setiap hari dengan medianya daripada sabut kelapa. Ini adalah kali pertama aku mencuba dengan menggunakan kaedah penyiraman dengan air campuran baja tahi ayam. Setiap pagi dan petang, aku akan menyiram pokok lada ini dengan baja tahi ayam yang telah di campurkan dengan air (1 baldi). Pokok cili tidak memerlukan air yang banyak cukup sekadar untuk pemakanannya bagi tempoh antara pagi dan petang. Jika berkesempatan, boleh di siram pada tengaharinya sedikit.

Now you can have your own hydroponic home system !

2009-03-23T23:26:00.003+08:00

This is an idea how you can make your own hydroponic home system. Its very simple and easy to get the materials. Lets try it!